Knowde Enhanced TDS
Identification & Functionality
- Chemical Family
- INCI Name
- Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
- Technologies
Features & Benefits
- Benefit Claims
- Labeling Claims
- Product Background
5α AVOCUTA®, plant esters, has then been developed from green chemistry.The purity of this active ingredient is guaranteed to be over 95% in esters thanks to a molecular distillation process patented by Expanscience.
The hyperseborrhoea, a consequence of this secretion and at the origin of the problems of oily skin with acne, may be caused by internal factors (hormone imbalance) or external factors (increase in temperature, pollution, etc.).
The enzyme 5α- reductase, type 1, metabolizes testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT), an androgen which has a powerful effect on the skin. The resulting DHT affects the pilosebaceous follicle, which increases the size of the sebaceous glands and the
level of sebum secretion.
Applications & Uses
- Markets
- Applications
- Hair Care Applications
- Skin Care Applications
- Treatment Product Applications
- Applications
- Oil-control skin care products (creams, masks, T-zone specific products)
- Oil-control hair care, anti-dandruff hair care
- Cleansing and treatment gels (face and body)
Properties
- Physical Form
- Odor
- Characteristic
Technical Details & Test Data
- Efficacy Studies
Effectiveness in-vitro
Inhibition of 5α- reductase
Normal human fibroblasts are treated for 24 hours, either with Serenoa repens (a pharmaceutical active ingredient known to inhibit 5α- reductase) or with 5α AVOCUTA®, in the presence of radiomarked testosterone. The formation of dihydrotestosterone (DHT) from testosterone is directly correlated to 5α- reductase activity and its quantity is proportional to the quantity of radioactivity measured. At same concentrations, 5α AVOCUTA® reduces the activity of 5α- reductase from 49% vs 35% for Sereona repens.
The following two studies were conducted in collaboration with dermatologists, in order to ensure that conditions were as close to reality as possible. The volunteers who took part in these studies had consulted the dermatologists about their problems of greasy hair or greasy skin, not solved by existing products on the market.
The studies were structured in the same way:1. Sebum samples taken before and after application using a Sebufix F16 patch. Quantification by image analysis.
2. Scoring by a dermatologist (scale 0 to 9) of the condition either of the volunteers’ hair and scalp, or of their skin, before and after
treatment.
3. Satisfaction questionnaire on products used completed by the volunteers.Effect on hair
- The cumulative surface area of lipid spots decreased by an average of 69% (13 subjects), demonstrating a marked slowing down of sebaceous gland activity.
- The seborrhea was reduced by approximately half, while the stinging,pruritus, erythema and desquamation that frequently accompany seborrheic conditions had practically disappeared.
- Lastly the volunteers confirmed these results:
- improvement of the greasy appearance of hair..... 78%
- soothing effect on irritation..... 63%
- reduction of dandruff....67%
Effect on the skin
- The cumulative surface area of lipid spots decreased by an average 40%, demonstrating a marked slowing down of sebaceous
- According to the dermatologist, seborrhea in the T-zone (face, nose andchin) reduced by approximately 30% in three weeks.gland activity.
- Lastly the volunteers confirmed these results:
- improvement of oily appearance... 78%
- reduction of the shiny appearance of the T-zone... 78%
- regulation of regreasing... 78%
Packaging & Availability
- Regional Availability