Knowde Enhanced TDS
Identification & Functionality
- Ingredient Origin
- Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
- Technologies
- Product Families
Features & Benefits
- Benefit Claims
- Product Background
Laboratoires Expanscience helps to stimulate the economy of this region, where lupine is cultivated according to sustainable agricultural practices and helps to support a sunflower european sourcing. Expanscience uses the resulting co-products, i.e. the active molecules from the seed coatings of the sweet white lupin. An original patented process for extracting lupeol was set up using these seed coatings, to develop COLLAGENEER®
A chaperone protein, HSP47, for a high quality collagen network:
With the mixed effects of aging process, free radicals and UV, collagen is altered and its quantity within the skin decreases: exacerbated degradation of existing collagen combined to a decrease of its synthesis thus limiting the replacement of the damaged collagen. As direct and visible consequences, some skin areas sag and slacken.
The HSP47 protein (Heat Shock Protein), enables to develop and improve the collagen network organization. Specific from collagen I, HSP47 ensures the production of high quality collagen in assisting the proper assembly of its structure.
HSP 47 is a collagen I specific molecular chaperone which facilitates the synthesis of a good quality procollagen I: HSP 47 attaches itself onto chains and facilitates their alignment and folding. It prevents aggregation, abnormal associations and chains being disintegrated by proteases in the endoplasmic reticulum (ER).
HSP47 assists the proper assembly of the triple helix and then accompanies procollagen I to the Golgi apparatus for maturation phase before being secreted outside the cell.
HSP47 also opposes maturation of the abnormal procollagen (quality control role), keeping it inside the cell and preventing it from being secreted into the extracellular matrix.
- General Information
• Solubility: liposoluble
• Recommended formulation temperature: optimal temperature is 40°C. Possibility of adding at 75°C just before blending, over a short period of time
• Antioxidant: a-Tocopherol of natural origin
• Storage: between 15°C and 25°C, under nitrogen, protected from light, heat and humidity
• Patents: WO02085827, 03/04/2001 - WO2005009331, 18/07/2003
Applications & Uses
- Markets
- Applications
- Skin Care Applications
- Use Level
- 0.5% to 2%
- Recommended Uses
- Remodeling anti-aging skin care
- Firming skin care
- Eye contour
Properties
- Odor
- Characteristic
- Appearance
- Oily liquid
Regulatory & Compliance
- Certifications & Compliance
Technical Details & Test Data
- Efficacy Study
Effectiveness in-vitro
Stimulation of HSP47 synthesis by Lupeol
In-vitro test: human fibroblasts, 48-hour treatment (Lupeol), Fluorescence immunostaining
Lupeol stimulates the production of HSP47, via overexpression of the gene (qRT-PCR: +21% for 20 μg/ml).
Quality and quantity: effect on type I collagen synthesis
In-vitro test: human fibroblasts, 72-hour treatment (Lupeol), ELISA test.
Lupeol significantly stimulates production and secretion of type I collagen, starting at 7 μg/ml, via overexpression of the collagen lα1 gene (qRT-PCR: +46% for 20 μg/ml).
- Clinical study
COLLAGENEER® properties on skin’s elasticity
This open study was carried out to validate the concept on volonteers. 25 volonteers (45 to 65 years old) displaying saggy skin on the facial oval, tested a cream with 2% COLLAGENEER® (2 applications/d. during 89 d.)
•Skin elasticity (Cutometer) Beginning at T42, an increase in the parameters characteristic of skin elasticity (Ur/Ue and Ur/Uf) is noted. At T89, the increases of 11.2% and 10.6%, respectively are significant.
• Facial contour (fringe projection) With age, the skin of the facial oval sags. The skin sagging volume is measured. At T42, a significant reduction in this volume is seen. This is confirmed and amplified at T89.
COLLAGENEER® remodels the facial contours.
•Self-assessment The volunteers confirmed these clinical results by their own assessment of the cream’s effectiveness:
•improved firmness of the skin 92%
•reduced sagging of the facial contour 72%