Collageneer® is a patented active ingredient derived from white Lupin seeds, rich in Lupeol, active molecule that increases the synthesis of Collagen I. Collageneer® has also a complementary stimulation on the production of a high quality collagen by promoting the synthesis of HSP 47 (Heat Shock Proteins), a Chaperone protein.Thanks to Collageneer® at 2%, after 42 days, the firmness of the skin is improved by 92% and the sagging of the facial contour is reduced by 72% (clinical study, Self-assessment evaluation). After 89 days, the skin elasticity is also improved by 10% (clinical study, Cutometer).Collageneer® is originating from French reasoned farming sourcing. This oil soluble active ingredient is preserved with natural Alpha-Tocopherol.

INCI Name: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract

Functions: Firming Agent

Ingredient Origin: Plant Origin

Labeling Claims: Clean at Sephora, Credo Clean Standard, Natural, Ulta Beauty's Conscious Beauty

Benefit Claims: Anti-Aging, Firming

Certifications & Compliance: CTFA Listed, IECIC (China)

Knowde Enhanced TDS

Identification & Functionality

Ingredient Origin
Cosmetic Ingredients Functions

Features & Benefits

Benefit Claims
Product Background

Laboratoires Expanscience helps to stimulate the economy of this region, where lupine is cultivated according to sustainable agricultural practices and helps to support a sunflower european sourcing. Expanscience uses the resulting co-products, i.e. the active molecules from the seed coatings of the sweet white lupin. An original patented process for extracting lupeol was set up using these seed coatings, to develop COLLAGENEER®

 A chaperone protein, HSP47, for a high quality collagen network:

With the mixed effects of aging process, free radicals and UV, collagen is altered and its quantity within the skin decreases: exacerbated degradation of existing collagen combined to a decrease of its synthesis thus limiting the replacement of the damaged collagen. As direct and visible consequences, some skin areas sag and slacken.

The HSP47 protein (Heat Shock Protein), enables to develop and improve the collagen network organization. Specific from collagen I, HSP47 ensures the production of high quality collagen in assisting the proper assembly of its structure.

HSP 47 is a collagen I specific molecular chaperone which facilitates the synthesis of a good quality procollagen I: HSP 47 attaches itself onto chains and facilitates their alignment and folding. It prevents aggregation, abnormal associations and chains being disintegrated by proteases in the endoplasmic reticulum (ER).

HSP47 assists the proper assembly of the triple helix and then accompanies procollagen I to the Golgi apparatus for maturation phase before being secreted outside the cell.

HSP47 also opposes maturation of the abnormal procollagen (quality control role), keeping it inside the cell and preventing it from being secreted into the extracellular matrix.

General Information

• Solubility: liposoluble

• Recommended formulation temperature: optimal temperature is 40°C. Possibility of adding at 75°C just before blending, over a short period of time

• Antioxidant: a-Tocopherol of natural origin

• Storage: between 15°C and 25°C, under nitrogen, protected from light, heat and humidity

• Patents: WO02085827, 03/04/2001 - WO2005009331, 18/07/2003

Applications & Uses

Application Format
Skin Care Applications
Use Level
0.5% to 2%
Recommended Uses
  • Remodeling anti-aging skin care
  • Firming skin care
  • Eye contour

Properties

Odor
Characteristic
Appearance
Oily liquid

Regulatory & Compliance

Certifications & Compliance

Technical Details & Test Data

Efficacy Study

Effectiveness in-vitro

Stimulation of HSP47 synthesis by Lupeol

In-vitro test: human fibroblasts, 48-hour treatment (Lupeol), Fluorescence immunostaining

Laboratoires Expanscience Collageneer Efficacy Study - 1

Lupeol stimulates the production of HSP47, via overexpression of the gene (qRT-PCR: +21% for 20 μg/ml).

Quality and quantity: effect on type I collagen synthesis

In-vitro test: human fibroblasts, 72-hour treatment (Lupeol), ELISA test.

Lupeol significantly stimulates production and secretion of type I collagen, starting at 7 μg/ml, via overexpression of the collagen lα1 gene (qRT-PCR: +46% for 20 μg/ml).

Laboratoires Expanscience Collageneer Efficacy Study - 2

Clinical study

COLLAGENEER® properties on skin’s elasticity

This open study was carried out to validate the concept on volonteers. 25 volonteers (45 to 65 years old) displaying saggy skin on the facial oval, tested a cream with 2% COLLAGENEER® (2 applications/d. during 89 d.)

•Skin elasticity (Cutometer) Beginning at T42, an increase in the parameters characteristic of skin elasticity (Ur/Ue and Ur/Uf) is noted. At T89, the increases of 11.2% and 10.6%, respectively are significant.

• Facial contour (fringe projection) With age, the skin of the facial oval sags. The skin sagging volume is measured. At T42, a significant reduction in this volume is seen. This is confirmed and amplified at T89.

Laboratoires Expanscience Collageneer Clinical study

COLLAGENEER® remodels the facial contours.

•Self-assessment The volunteers confirmed these clinical results by their own assessment of the cream’s effectiveness:

•improved firmness of the skin 92%

•reduced sagging of the facial contour 72%