Sweetone® is a concentrate of active molecules obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis of Schizandra berries, with a unique composition of peptides, sugars and hydroxyl-acids.As an imperfection corrector, Sweetone® globally modulates the non-specific inflammation (-56% IL-1; -74% Il-6; -37% IL-8 - In-vitro tests), limits the vascular inflammation (-72% VEGF, -52% proliferation of endothelial cells after 24h) and reduces the melanin synthesis (-25%). This dual soothing and unifying action is thus recommended to reduce the skin redness (-41,35%) and homogenize the skin complexion (-8,93% of contrast) with 0,5% of Sweetone® (clinical study after 28 days).Sweetone® is originating from a Chinese plant sourcing. This preservative-free powder (on organic Maltodextrin carrier) is approved by Ecocert Greenlife.

INCI Name: Saccharide Hydrolysate

Functions: Anti-Aging Agent, Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Pollution Agent

Ingredient Origin: Plant Origin

Labeling Claims: Credo Clean Standard, Natural, Organic, Preservative-free, Ulta Beauty's Conscious Beauty

Benefit Claims: Anti-Aging, Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Pollution, Blemish Control, Couperose Reduction, Redness Reduction, Smoothing, Soothing

Certifications & Compliance: COSMOS, CTFA Listed, ECOCERT, IECIC (China), Organic Certified

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Knowde Enhanced TDS

Identification & Functionality

Ingredient Origin
CAS No.
8013-17-0
EC No.
232-393-1

Features & Benefits

Product Background

The Schizandra sphenanthera berries used to make SWEETONE® grow wild, without pesticides or fertilizers, and are harvested by hand according to best agricultural practices. As a part of its commitment to fighting bio-piracy, Expanscience has documented the traditional knowledge associated with Schizandra sphenanthera berries to avoid any conflict with the use of biodiversity.

Dual action: soothing and unifying for a skin clear of imperfections Perfect skin has become a universal quest. Today, women are looking for a miracle ingredient that can erase all the skin imperfections that appear due to the pressures of modern life (stress and fatigue) and environmental factors (pollution, tobacco, sun exposure, etc.). Sensitive skin concern, which affects two out of three women, also causes imperfections.

Skin imperfections include redness, small pimples, flushing, uneven skin tone, sun spots and discomfort, irritation or burning.

General Information

• Solubility: hydrosoluble

• Recommended formulation temperature: add during cooling, at 35°C to 40°C

• pH of the aqueous solution (5% powder): 3.5 to 4.5

• Storage: between 15°C and 25°C, in an airtight sachet, protected from light and humidity

• Patents: WO2011012612, 30/07/2009 - WO2011012615, 30/07/2009 FR14 61 518, 26/11/2014

Applications & Uses

Application Format
Color Cosmetic Applications
Sun Care Applications
Treatment Product Applications
Use Level
0.1% to 0.5%
Recommended Uses

• Imperfection corrector (skin-tone unifying treatment, BB-CC cream)

• Soothing, anti-redness treatment for sensitive skin

• After-sun treatment

Properties

Physical Form
Odor
Characteristic
Soluble in
Water

Regulatory & Compliance

Technical Details & Test Data

Efficacy Study

Effectiveness in-vitro

Soothing effect: SWEETONE® globally modulates inflammation

Action on non-specific, vascular and neurogenic inflammation (in-vitro tests, 0.05% Hydrolysate of Schizandra 0.1% SWEETONE®)

Laboratoires Expanscience Sweetone Efficacy Study - 1

*keratinocytes, PMA stress (Phorbol Myristate Acetate) ** endothelial cells proliferation (vaisseaux), VEGF stress *** neurones/keratinocytes co-culture, capsaicin stress

*keratinocytes, PMA stress (Phorbol Myristate Acetate)

** endothelial cells proliferation (vaisseaux), VEGF stress

*** neurones/keratinocytes co-culture, capsaicin stress

SWEETONE® modulates non-specific and vascular inflammation to limit the proliferation of endothelial cells and reduces skin imperfections, such as redness. By reducing neurogenic inflammation, SWEETONE® soothes the sensitive skins.

Unifying effect: SWEETONE® can modulate melanogenesis

The effects of ultraviolet light, the aging process and inflammatory stress can all result in pigmentation disorders. SWEETONE® is able to modulate these pigmentation disorders thanks to the

• effect it has on limiting the synthesis of melanin: -25% (in-vitro test, melanocytes, 0.05% HS)

• effect it has on the dendricity of melanocytes: inhibits the release of PGE2 (-35%, in-vitro test, keratinocytes, 0.05%HS). PGE2, a lipid inflammation mediator, stimulates the dendricity of melanocytes, increasing the transfer of melanocyte melanin to the keratinocytes. As such, SWEETONE® can potentially limit the spread of melanin in skin.

Laboratoires Expanscience Sweetone Efficacy Study - 2

 

 

Clinical study

Most non-homogenous complexions are caused by skin redness. Using a randomized clinical trial, double-blind versus placebo, the benefits of SWEETONE® in reducing redness and creating a more uniform complexion is demonstrated. The assessment was carried out using an innovative technique that involved analyzing images from photos taken in cross polarized light.

60 women (average age 36), divided into 2 homogenous groups, with sensitive skin and established redness, applied a cream containing either 0.5% SWEETONE® or the placebo for a period of 56 days. The cream was applied twice per day.

Laboratoires Expanscience Sweetone Clinical study - 1

Laboratoires Expanscience Sweetone Clinical study - 2

Ability to reduce redness: measurement of the surface area covered by the blood vessels

Laboratoires Expanscience Sweetone Clinical study - 3

Ability to homogenize the complexion: measurement of contrast Reducing contrast results in a more uniform complexion.

•Self-assessment (% of satisfaction after 56 days): The results obtained are confirmed by the volunteers: Sweetone® limits the appearance of newly diffused redness 83 % Sweetone® reduces the intensity of diffused redness 76 % Sweetone® limits the appearance of new localized redness 69%

 Laboratoires Expanscience Sweetone Clinical study - 4

 

 

Assays content
Assay Content
Alpha-amino nitrogen content/DM 1.0 to 4.0 g/100 g
Protides by Kjeldahl 3.0 to 9.0%
Citric acid content/DM min.5.0%
Maltodextrin content/ DM 45.0 to 55.0 g/100 g
Total sugars content/DM min.55.0 g/100 g