Nanovetores Tecnologia S.A. NV Retinol

NV™ Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, widely used in skin care. Recognized as one of the most efficient vitamins with anti-aging potential, retinol has the capacity of stimulating collagen production and normalizing skin keratinization, besides providing an antioxidant support which accelerates cell renewal rate. Its constant application significantly improves skin elasticity, softness, resulting in a younger, uniform and healthy skin.

INCI Name: BHA, BHT, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 80, Retinol, Steareth-2, Steareth-21

Functions: Anti-Aging Agent, Antioxidant

Labeling Claims: Biocompatible, Biodegradable, Cruelty-Free, Halal, Not Tested on Animals, Sustainable

Benefit Claims: Anti-Aging, Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Irritant, Anti-Wrinkle, Antioxidant Properties, Cell Regeneration, Collagen Boosting, Collagen Protection, Compatibility, Encapsulated Actives, Even Skin Tone, Fine Lines Reduction, Healthy-Looking Skin, Hydrating, Improved Stability, Improves Cell Longevity, Improves Skin Elasticity, Improves Skin Permeability, Irritation Reduction, Melanin Reduction, Non-Sensitizing, Oxidation Protection, Photo-Aging Protection, Promotes Youthful Skin, Rejuvenating, Sensitivity Reduction, Softening, Solubilizing, Toning, Wrinkle Refinement

Certifications & Compliance: Halal, ISO 9001

Technical Data Sheet
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Identification & Functionality

Carrier
Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
Chemical Structure

Nanovetores Tecnologia S.A. NV Retinol - Chemical Structure

Chemical name: Retinol CAS: 68-26-8
Molar mass: 286,45 g/mol
Chemical information and retinol molecular structure.

Features & Benefits

Product Information

NV Retinol is a retinol-based product encapsulated in lipid nanoparticles with enzymatic release trigger. It has extended release, releasing about 80% of its contents over a period of 8 hours after the product is applied. The encapsulation of active ingredients through VAM® technology allows the stabilization of extremely sensitive components, therefore, complex of being formulated, providing increased skin permeation, better sensory experience for the final product, as well as high hydration, since these active ingredients focus on lipid replacement and prevent transepidermal water loss.

Retinol is the alcohol form of vitamin A and is the precursor of other forms of this vitamin, such as retinoic acid. When it is absorbed into the skin, the retinol is oxidized to retinoic acid. However, retinol is safer for use in cosmetic formulations, because it is less irritating and less sensitizing when compared to retinoic acid. Thus, retinol has potential to deliver the powerful effects of retinoic acid on human skin with improved tolerance (KAFI et al.,2007). Retinol operates in the maintenance of normal skin, by acting in the process of hyperkeratinization, in the differentiation of epithelial cells and in the synthesis of collagen and elastin, providing softness to the skin, and favoring a younger and healthier appearance. It acts on epidermal renewal, both during natural cellular renewal as in the case of reparation of epidermal lesions. Moreover, it performs a protective and neutralizing effect against the deleterious conditions of oxidative stress, exposure to UV radiation and skin aging.

When applied topically, retinol reduces fine wrinkles associated with natural aging of the skin. Retinol significantly increases the production of collagen and the quantity of glycosaminoglycan, an essential component of the extracellular matrix with hygroscopic function, providing intense hydration to skin and reducing expression lines.

Features

Dispersibility: Water dispersion of encapsulated actives.

Particle: Lipid

Release Trigger: Enzimatic

Benefits Claims
  • Anti-aging action;
  • Promotes epidermal renewal;
  • Standardizes skin tone;
  • Reduces wrinkles and expression lines;
  • Hydration;
  • Acne vulgaris treatment.
Unique Benefits of Nanovectores Encapsulation Technology
  • Multifunctional Lipid Particles that promote hydration and extended effect
  • Active Ingredient Protection against oxidation resulted from interaction with external environment and other components of the cosmetic formulation
  • Monodispersity, that ensures control of the particle size, providing adequate permeation to its proposed action
  • Secure particles larger than 200nm, biocompatible and biodegradable
  • Enzymatic Specific Release Trigger, where enzymes present on the skin disintegrate particles, releasing the active ingredient specifically where it needs to act
  • Greater Permeation on the contact surface due to the small size of the capsule
  • Surface Charge Control of the particle, promoting greater affinity with the contact surface
  • Water Base. Active ingredients are manufactured without the use of organic solvents, ensuring safety for users and the environment
Encapsulated Active Ingredients Benefits
  • Stability Improvement
  • Use of sensitive active ingredients (without refrigeration)
  • Increased Solubility
  • Prolonged release
  • Increased effectiveness
  • Increased compability in the formulation
  • Occlusion of odors
  • Increased skin permeation
  • Reduced dose

Applications & Uses

Bath & Shower Applications
Color Cosmetic Applications
Treatment Product Applications
Use level
6.5%
Usage Mode

Add to the formulation bellow 40°C under moderate agitation.

Recommended Uses

Primers, creams, masks, sprays, gels, facial cream gels and gels for the eye area, liquid soaps, makeup remover and products to standardize skin tone.

Properties

Physical Form
Odor
Characteristic
Appearance
Milky liquid
Typical Properties
ValueUnitsTest Method / Conditions
Relative Density0.9 - 1.1g/ml
Retinol Concentration150UI/g
Physico-Chemical Properties
ValueUnitsTest Method / Conditions
pH Value Stability2.0 - 7.0
NV Retinol superior stability

To demonstrate the Nanovetores encapsulation system performance in the protection and maintenance of Retinol content, comparative accelerated stability studies were performed.

Compatibility

Anionic, non-ionic and cationic bases. For aqueous solutions of low viscosity, the use of a suspending agent is indicated.

Incompatability

Enzymes, ethanol and other organic solvents.

Regulatory & Compliance

Certifications & Compliance

Technical Details & Test Data

Action Mechanism

The biological retinol mechanisms are mainly based in its conversion into retinoic acid after
entering the epidermis, being used in cell repair. Retinol can be converted in the skin by oxidative metabolism into retinaldehyde, followed by additional oxidation into retinoic acid

Nanovetores Tecnologia S.A. NV Retinol - Action Mechanism

Retinol enzymatic conversion into retinoic acid in vivo (Adapted).

 

Many benefits are observed with the topical use of retinol, it induces the expression of cell-binding proteins that result in several molecular changes. In photoaging, acts preventing the induction of metalloproteinases (MPP) involved in the process of extracellular matrix destruction. As result, we have the dermic structure restauration with the proliferation of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, the raise of corneocytes release, glycoproteins production, collagen and hyaluronic acid deposition. With the capacity to
stimulate several biological receptors, Retinol also reduces melanin production, and has anti-inflammatory effects, being usefull in vulgaris acne treatment.

Studies show that the major part of retinol applied in the skin remains in the stratum
corneum, and a small compound part reaches the viable epidermis and the upper layers of the dermis, where it would perform its biological action. For topical applications, Nanovetores encapsulation system offers effective and safe delivery of actives in skin regions where they play their biological role.

Retinol Encapsulation Advantages

The Retinol encapsulation through Nanovetores’ Technology enables a smart and safe delivery of the active ingredient to the skin, with significant stability increase, ensuring greater cosmetics efficacy.
Conventional products containing Retinol require multiple applications to maintain the therapeutic effect, which can bring negative consequences such as irritation, erythema and skin peeling. To overcome these challenges, the encapsulation of retinol provides a better biological performance, with high skin tolerance and better formula’s chemical stability.
NV Retinol is composed by nanoparticles with average size superior than 200nm. The encapsulation system promotes safety and active protection against the oxidative degradation that happens once in the presence of air and light. NV Retinol also makes the ingredients’ incorporation in cosmetic formulations easier, resulting in the improvement of its sensory and its compatibility with the other ingredients.

  • 14X More efficient in cellular longevity promotion.
  • 3,3X More powerful than free retinol in collagen protection
  • 5X More chemically stable than free form

Nanovetores Tecnologia S.A. NV Retinol - Retinol Encapsulation Advantages 

Methodology
  • Samples: Free Retinol and NV Retinol.
  • Test conditions: Exposure to light and temperatures of 5°C; 25°C; 40°C, for 90 days.
  • Retinol’s content analysis: HPLC (High performance liquid chromatography) dosing, during the accelerated stability study in times 0; 30; 60 and 90 days.
  • Organoleptic and physical-chemical analysis: pH, sensory analysis and density.

Results

The NV Retinol shown a much superior stability when compared to the free form active. According to the obtained results, it was possible to conclude that NV Retinol was shown stable in the stress conditions not showing expressive variations in pH, color, odor, and density. Nanovetores encapsulation system ensures the active content maintenance, dispensing refrigeration, which makes the product’s transport and storage easier. (Graph 1). Besides, NV Retinol performance makes its incorporation much easier in cosmetic formulations and grants all the ingredients benefits.

Graph 1 demonstrates the retinol content rate of decay highlighting the improved stability of the nanoencapsulated version. The NV Retinol presented a 15,7% of decay during the accelerated stability study, while free form retinol shown 82,8% in the same period. Therefore, NV Retinol was 5 times more stable in the maintenance of vitamin A content when compared to free form retinol.

Nanovetores Tecnologia S.A. NV Retinol - Methodology

Graph 1: Retinol’s Content analysis by HPLC, in samples of free form Retinol and NV
Retinol exposed to temperatures of 25°C in times 0 day; 30 days, 60 days and 90 days.

In Vitro

Cell longevity evaluation

Samples: Free retinol and NV Retinol.
 

Objective: Evaluate the products’ anti-aging potencial through the capacity to stimulate
Fox03 markers related to cell senescence and longevity.
 

Methodology: Expression of Fox03 and SIRT1 markers by RTq-PCR, using human fibroblast cell culture. Products diluted from the concentration of 10% of sample in culture medium. Greenhouse incubation at 37°C and 5% of CO2 for 24 hours.

Senescence is a naturally occurring process and refers to a period in which the cells are uncapable to continue their cycle, even in the presence of growth factors, defining the lifetime of the mammalian cells and preventing unlimited proliferation. This process can be triggered by several types of cellular stress, including telomere shortening, the presence of free radicals and an oncogenic signaling, promoting aging. The Fox0s markers control an infinity of cellular functions, such as growth, survival, metabolism,
regulating the expression of several related genes. The increase in Fox03 expression has the capacity to suppress cellular senescence by reactivating the transcription of the antioxidant and, therefore, inhibits free radicals' generation, and can be stimulated using anti-aging actives like Retinol

Results
Graph 2 shows the Fox03 expression in human fibroblasts culture submitted to the contact with the control (culture medium), NV Retinol and free Retinol. The NV Retinol was tested at a 10 times lower concentration in retinol content when compared to the retinol version (pure).
The NV Retinol presented an increase of 36,5% while free retinol shown a reduction of 2,8% in the Fox03 expression. These results demonstrate the NV Retinol nanoparticles power with 14 times greater activity when compared to free Retinol, even being at a 10x lower concentration of Retinol active. The NV Retinol superior results have demonstrated its anti-aging increased performance. With nanotechnology, less is more.

Nanovetores Tecnologia S.A. NV Retinol - In Vitro

Graph 2: Result of the analysis of Fox03 relative expression of the samples when compared to the control group in human fibroblasts.

Clinical Tests

The NV Retinol Perceived Efficacy Study was conducted with the product IN PEARLS RETINOL*, after 30 days of product use in standardized conditions.

Methodology: The products were used by the research participants during 30 ± 2 days according to the mode of use informed by the Sponsor.

Evaluated product: IN PEARLS RETINOL.
The product IN Pearls Retinol* contains 4.875 UI/g of Vitamin A, which corresponds to 0,325% of retinol.

Number of volunteers: 32 Participants.

Nanovetores Tecnologia S.A. NV Retinol - Clinical Tests

Nanovetores Tecnologia S.A. NV Retinol - Clinical Tests - 1

 

After 30 days of use, the investigational product (IN PEARLS RETINOL) promoted wrinkles improvement in 64% in relation to baseline measures. Dermatologically tested
product. *Retinol BP version

Nanovetores Tecnologia S.A. NV Retinol - Clinical Tests - 2

Protection

Collagen protection evaluation
Samples: Free retinol and NV Retinol.


Objective: Evaluate the products collagen protection potential through the capacity to stimulate marker SIRT-1.


Methodology: Expression of the marker SIRT1 through RTq-PCR, using human fibroblasts cells culture. Diluted products from the concentration of 10% of sample in culture medium. Greenhouse incubation at 37°C and 5% of CO2 for 24 hours.


The SIRT-1 presence at the dermal fibroblasts is related to the diminished collagen degradation, due to its influence on the reduction of matrix metalloproteinases. As it can be observed below in Graph 3, the NV Retinol presented an increase of 18,5% in SIRT-1 expression, while Free Retinol has only presented 5,6%. That is, once again NV Retinol showed superior results, being 3,3x more efficient when compared to Free Retinol. Bearing in mind that the retinol content in NV Retinol is 10x lower, indicating,
therefore, that the encapsulation provides a more effective retinol delivery in its action target which ensures an increase in the collagen degradation protection when compared to free retinol.

Nanovetores Tecnologia S.A. NV Retinol - Protection

Graph 3: Result of the analysis of SIRT-1 relative expression of the samples when compared to the control group in human fibroblasts culture

Storage & Handling

Storage

Keep it bellow 25°C in a ventilated place, protected from light and heat.