Knowde Enhanced TDS
Identification & Functionality
- Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
- Technologies
- Product Families
Features & Benefits
- Benefit Claims
- Product Highlights
- The challenge with retinol is that it is extremely unstable and easily degrades when exposed to light and air and it can irritate the skin.
- Encapsulation makes it suitable for consumers with sensitive skin. Slow release minimizes the side effects associated with retinol (irritation, erythema or dermatitis).
- Easy to formulate by improving the compatibility and distribution of retinol in typical lotions used in skin care.
- Enhances stability by maximizing the potency and effectiveness of retinol due to retaining the retinol potency in the lotion over storage time.
- Product Background
MultiSal™ Retinol is a controlled delivery system consisting of stabilized retinol for skin care applications.
Retinol has been utilized extensively as an anti-wrinkle therapy. The molecule acts by inducing glycosaminoglycan and collagen synthesis, thus rejuvenating the firmness and youthful appearance of skin.
A challenge regarding the use of retinol is its susceptibility to oxidation, which ultimately reduces the potency and limits the effectiveness of the active. Moreover, because of its ability to enhance skin turnover, retinol can cause irritation on consumers with sensitive skin.
- Product Information
MultiSal™ technology is based on double-layered encapsulation of retinol. The retinol is contained within sub-micron spheres, which are re-encapsulated within larger microspheres.
The system is processed at low temperature to ensure the stability of retinol during processing.
The structure of MultiSal™ Retinol with an outer microsphere shell and a core containing sub-micron spheres infused with retinol.
The microsphere ruptures when the lotion is rubbed into the skin, releasing the sub-micron spheres inside.
The shell of the sub-micron sphere is comprised of a bio-adhesive polymer that modulates the adhesion to the skin for longer-lasting efficacy. The core is comprised of botanical lipophilic ingredients that partition into the skin, thus modulating the slow release of the encapsulated retinol over time.
Applications & Uses
- Markets
- Color Cosmetic Applications
- Skin Care Applications
Properties
- Odor
- Characteristic
- Typical Properties
| Value | Units | Test Method / Conditions | |
| pH (1% Solution) | 8 - 11 | — | — |
Technical Details & Test Data
- Efficacy Tests
MultiSal™ Retinol reduces the appearance of fine lines in as little as 2 weeks. A study was done (n=5) with a lotion loaded with 0.2% retinol (Figure 2). After 2 weeks there was a significant reduction of fine lines.
(A) Before and (B) after 2 weeks of daily use of a lotion containing MultiSal™ Retinol loaded at 0.2% retinol.
Enhanced Shelf-Life Stability
MultiSal™ Retinol has a unique double encapsulation design conducive to greater stability and longer shelf life. The stability of MultiSal™ Retinol was compared to that of free retinol in lotions loaded at 0.1% retinol (Figure 3). After 50 days at 42˚C, HPLC analysis revealed that the encapsulation technology facilitated retention of 80% of the retinol while the free only retained 5% of initial retinol.
Amount of retinol retained from lotions containing MultiSal™ technology versus the free. Amount of retinol was detected using HPLC after stability testing at 42˚C for 50 days.
Controlled Release
MultiSal™ Retinol enables slow and controlled release of retinol in order to yield long lasting benefits. The amount of retinol on skin was measured over a four hour time period from a lotion containing MultiSal™ Retinol and a lotion containing free retinol at 0.05% loading .
Percent of retinol retained on the skin after application from a product containing 0.05% retinol from MultiSal™ versus. free over four hours. Release rate of the MultiSal™ lotion was ~4 times slower than that of the free.
The release rate of the MultiSal™ Retinol technology was four times slower than that of the free. The results of the study confirm the release by design of the MultiSal™ technology and demonstrates its ability to provide long-lasting wrinkle therapy
Storage & Handling
- Storage and Handling
Closed container at 25°C with <45% RH