AE Chemie Esters SEBUMOL ODPC

Identification & Functionality

INCI Name

Octyldodecyl PCA

Cosmetic Ingredients Functions

Moisturizing Agent

CAS No.

37673-37-3

EC No.

253-604-3

Technologies

Cosmetic Ingredients

Product Families

Cosmetic Ingredients — Functionals

Conditioners & Emollients

Features & Benefits

Benefit Claims

Highly Restructuring,

Hydrating,

Moisturizing,

Non-Oily Feel,

Rapid Absorption,

Reduces Stickiness,

Silky Feel,

Skin Barrier,

Soft Feel,

Spreadability,

Strengthening,

Tewl Reduction,

Water Repellency

Labeling Claims

Clean at Sephora,

Not Listed In California Proposition 65,

Odor-free,

Ulta Beauty's Conscious Beauty

Applications & Uses

Markets

Personal Care

Applications

Personal Care — Beauty & Care

Bath & Shower,

Color Cosmetics,

Hair Care,

Skin Care,

Sun Care

Application Format

Bar,

Creams,

Leave On,

Lotions,

Rinse Off,

Spray,

Stick

Bath & Shower Applications

Bar Soaps,

Bath Oil

Color Cosmetic Applications

Lip Gloss,

Lipstick

Hair Care Applications

Shampoos & Rinses

Skin Care Applications

Body Cream,

Body Lotion

Sun Care Applications

Sunscreen Lotion

Use Level

0.5 – 5%

Applications

• Skin silkening
• Moisturizing creams & lotions
• Lip-gloss
• Special liquid moisturizing rinse-off formulations (e.g. bath and shower oils)
• Moisturizing syndet bars
• Hair oil and wax
• Hair rinse

Properties

Physical Form

Solid

Technical Details & Test Data

Characteristics

• SEBUMOL ODPC is an easy spreading, fast absorbing ester leaving a soft skin feel.
• It provides an exceptional silky non-oily skin feel.
• In a corneometer test SEBUMOL ODPC induces a significant increase of skinmoisture (up to 56% after 2h, 45% after 3h) measured via Corneometer

Skin moisture measured as corneometer units

 

• A reduction of trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) of 16% after 2h was measured for SEBUMOL ODPC via Tewameter (Tewameter TM 210 /Courage & Khazaka)
• SEBUMOL ODPC can be used to increase the water resistance of emulsions, which is very important for sun protection lotions. In a test measuring the sun protection factor (international SPF test method, Colipa guideline 2005) of the Colipa standar formulation (P2) for water resistance, a sun protection lotion was upgraded from “water resistant” to “very water resistant” by addition of 4% SEBUMOL ODPC. (Screening on 5 subjects)
• Short and long term hydration of the skin thanks to
  •  immediate effect: the formation of a lipophilic film of the ester itself,
  •  long term effect: via PCA when it is present on the skin as free PCA after the cleavage of the ester on the skin. (Literature)
• Octyldodecyl PCA has a bi-lipidic structure (two long carbon chains), which is very similar to skin ceramides. It is claimed to restructure the cutaneous barrier and to stimulate the synthesis of ceramides 1 and 2. (Literature)
• PCA and PCA-Esters are in general claimed to strengthen the skin barrier function. (Literature)