Knowde Enhanced TDS
Identification & Functionality
- Carrier
- INCI Name
- Ingredient Origin
- Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
- Technologies
Features & Benefits
- Product Background
To stabilize the pH of skin and inhibit irritation and odors
Amiderm ER stops one of the causes of skin irritation at source: the increase in pH due to the degradation of urea by urease. It acts by inhibiting urease due to the presence of hamamelitannin, a specific tannin of witch hazel. The increase in the skin’s pH is due to a natural phenomenon that affects all parts of the body at various levels and which is aggravated by heat.
Urea, naturally present in perspiration, is degraded into ammonia by an enzyme, urease, which is secreted by the commensal bacteria of the skin. The ammonia produced provokes alkalinization of the epidermis and a stimulation of the bacterial activity which leads on: on one hand of an increase in the skin permeability that promotes irritation, and on the other hand of an overactivity of bacteria that metabolizes compounds of perspiration and produces unpleasant odors.This is intensified where perspiration is most abundant (feet, scalp, armpits, etc.) or in the presence of urine in babies’ nappies causing nappy rash.
Several studies* have shown the anti-urease activity of some polyphenols (a hydroxyl group forms a link with the reception site of urease). Of these polyphenols, we selected a specific tannin of hamamelis, called hamamelitannin.
For instant softening action
Oak gallnuts contain a high amount of tannins, among which 70% of hydrolysable tannins, mostly gallic tannins. This exceptional richness makes oak gallnut a particularly astringent active which regulates secretions and tightens skin pores, whereas its anti-inflammatory properties have a softening action.
For optimum moisturisation
Amino acids (arginine and leucine) supplement the action of Amiderm ER by ensuring an optimum moisturisation of the epidermis, thus contributing to the softening action of the ingredient.
Moisturisation of the epidermis is partly conditioned by an intracorneocyte complex of hygroscopic molecules called "NMF" (Natural Moisturizing Factor). It is composed of approximately 20% organic acids (mainly lactic acid and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid), approximately 8% mineral salts and almost 65% free amino acids originating from the decomposition of filaggrin. These are therefore very important for water retention in the epidermis and prevent it from dehydrating.
Dermocosmetic research* has shown that the barrier function can be enhanced by an external supply of NMF, and by amino acids in particular. Amino acids applied directly to the skin have the ability to bind to the stratum corneum and accumulate there.
Hamamelis Properties
Hamamelis, also known as witch hazel, was first discovered around 1548. This shrub has long been used in cosmetics for its softening and regenerating properties. Witch hazel distilled water is one of the most widely used health care products in the United States.
Purifying, softening and astringent hamamelis is used to prepare skincare for oily, damaged and sensitive skins. This microcirculation activator helps diminish diffuse redness of the face.
By distilling the bark of young twigs with water vapor, we obtain a tonic, refreshing “floral water”, which can be used namely in aftershave lotions.
Rich in phenolic compounds, and especially in hamamelitanins, witch hazel bark is an effective antioxidant. It can be used in sun-protecting or aging skin preparations.
Oak Gallnut Properties
Oak gallnuts have been harvested since ancient times for medicinal and dyeing purposes. Aleppo’s region was renowned throughout the Roman Empire for producing large quantities.
Very rich in phenolic compounds, oak gallnuts have antioxidant properties. This ingredient is ideal in anti-aging and soothing cosmetic treatments as well as products for stressed and irritated skin.
The anti-inflammatory gallnut is often used to treat skin conditions.
The astringent and purifying gallnut is particularly recommended in skincare for acne-prone oily skin and for natural deodorants.
Oak gallnut is also used in lightening treatments.
- Product Benefits
Amiderm ER is a soothing active cosmetic ingredient, which provides many benefits, including:
- Reducing and preventing unpleasant odors: Useful in natural deodorants that respect the physiological and biological balance of the skin. Ideal for athletes.
- Reducing irritation: Amiderm ER is an ideal soothing effect for diaper rashes in infants and redness caused by sensitive and irritated skin.
- Stabilizing the skin’s pH: A 100% natural solution for healthy and balanced skin through a smart anti-urease effect.
- Optimal skin hydration through addition of amino acids
Applications & Uses
- Markets
- Applications
- Application Format
- AP/Deo Applications
- Skin Care Applications
- Use Level
- 1-2%
- Applications
Amiderm ER mode of action makes it the essential ingredient in all situations when skin is stressed by an increase in pH: particularly sensitive and wet areas of the body, babies’ bottom, normal and excessive perspiration, etc.
Some examples:
- Protecting creams against nappy rash
- Deodorant formulations to prevent skin irritation
- Intimate hygiene, comfort products
- Body care for sport and urban rush cosmetics
- Formulation Guidelines
- Compatible with a great number of preservatives except benzalkonium chlorure
- Excellent compatibility with natural gelling agents such as Amigel®
- Avoid any raw materials which are incompatibles with amino acids and proteins
Properties
- Appearance
- Viscous liquid
- Typical Properties
| Value | Units | Test Method / Conditions | |
| Aerobic Bacteria | max. 100 | CFU/g | — |
| Flash Point | min. 100 | °C | — |
| Refractive Index | 1.464 - 1.484 | — | — |
| Water Content | max. 5 | % | — |
Technical Details & Test Data
- Efficacy Tests
Principle
The degradation of urea by urease results in an increase in pH due to the formation of ammonia, a source of irritation and unpleasant odors. The anti-urease activity of Amiderm ER has been shown in vitro by the pH measurement over time, in an environment containing urea and urease, in the presence and absence of the inhibitor agent.
Protocol
Samples
- Control: solution of urea and urease with a pH6 citrate buffer (close to skin’s natural pH)
- The same solution in the presence of increasing doses of Amiderm ER (from 0.5 to 5%), at pH6 as well. Samples are incubated in hot water bath at 37°C.
pH measurements
- At T0, before the samples are incubated
- At T1/2h, T1h, T2h, T3h, T4h, T5h and T6h, during incubation.
Results
In the control sample: A very fast and significant increase in pH is found over time which goes from 6.0 to 8.3 from the first half-hour of incubation. This increase stabilizes at a pH around 9 after 2 hours of incubation.
In samples containing Amiderm ER: An inhibition of alkalinisation of the medium is found from the dose of 0.5% after half-an-hour of incubation. The pH is stabilized around 6, whatever the quantity of Amiderm ER used. It can therefore be concluded that urease was inhibited, thereby preventing an increase in pH.
The diagram below shows the value for the minimum recommended dose of Amiderm ER (1%):
Conclusion
In the experimental conditions described, Amiderm ER has almost instant in vitro inhibitory activity of urease, even at a very low dose.
Packaging & Availability
- Regional Availability