Knowde Enhanced TDS
Identification & Functionality
- Chemical Family
- INCI Name
- Ingredient Origin
- Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
- Technologies
Features & Benefits
- Benefit Claims
- Labeling Claims
- Product Background
Lipolami® ER is the ideal natural, multifunctional ingredient for the formulation of cosmetic products. Its dual capability as a texture agent and as an active ingredient for protecting the skin barrier make it the perfect alternative to silicone for high-quality and natural care.
Lipolami® ER is a natural cosmetic ingredient essential to your care products, made possible by our expertise in natural formulation.
Made from milk thistle — a plant not often used in cosmetics — Lipolami® ER is a dry-touch fluid oil for formulating cosmetics that are easy to apply and offer a unique touch and feel.
As an alternative to silicone and a source of omega-6, Lipolami® ER combines sensory properties with exceptional skin care benefits:
- Texture agent with a dry, supple touch for an extremely soft feeling
- Protects the skin’s barrier
A cosmetic product is pleasant to use when it is light and spreads easily on the skin. Ideal coverage depends on the product’s fluidity and surface tension.
Lipolami® ER is a formulation ingredient specially designed to develop sensory and natural textures. It is highly viscous and has low surface tension.
egetable esters that are typically used in formulations come from the saturated fatty acids of coconut and palm oils: caprylic, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids. These fatty acids do not have a cosmetic property.
In contrast, Lipolami® ER retains the same proportion of fatty acids as the milk thistle oil from which it originates. It contains over 50% linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid from the omega-6 family.
This essential fatty acid is naturally present in the composition of the skin barrier. Applying it to the skin makes it possible to reinforce the skin’s resistance by protecting against:
- Mechanical and chemical stressors
- Drying
- Loss of water
Integrating Lipolami® ER into your product improves the maintenance of skin moisturizing.
As part of our commitment to Corporate Social Responsibility and for optimal carbon balance, we favor a vegetable source close to where Lipolami® ER is produced. Unlike the usual exploitation of palm oils for the manufacture of this type of ingredient, using milk thistle to develop Lipolami® ER does not contribute to deforestation.
Our manufacturing process, by transesterification, is approved by natural references. Lipolami® ER is approved by COSMOS.
With a biodegradability rating between 80 and 90%, Lipolami® ER biodegrades easily (based on manometric breathing test, protocol OCDE301F).
- Product Benefits
Lipolami® ER is a natural and sensory alternative to silicones that adds remarkable benefits to your care products, including:
- Stability and fineness to emulsions
- Dispersion and solubilization of solar filters
- Dispersion of pigments and minerals
- Solubilization of perfumes (perfumed bases and essential oils)
- Solubilization of fatty substances
- Product Features
Lipolami®’s spreading capacity
The good spreading capacity of a product depends on its fluidity but also on its surface tension. The surface tension is the strength able to stretch the surface of a liquid when applied to it. The lower the surface tension of a liquid, the better the liquid can be spread.
For instance, water is very fluid but tends to form droplets instead of a uniform film whereas a vegetable oil, though more viscous, spreads much easily thanks to its low surface tension.
This is why Lipolami®, which is as fluid as water and keeps the same surface tension as the oil, is very easily spreadable. This characteristic, along with its dry feel, makes Lipolami® a perfect ingredient to formulate natural textures with outstanding sensorial properties.
Lipolami®’s Formulation Assets
Lipolami® Milk Thistle is the ideal natural ingredient to formulate silicone-free products with a silky, light and non-sticky touch. It becomes the indispensable ally of your natural textures thanks to its numerous assets in formulation:
Exceptional capacities of solubilisation and dispersion
- It efficiently solubilises oil-soluble UV filters (such as benzophenone-3, le butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane et l’octylmethoxycinnamate)
- It can be used in fragranced cosmetics as a natural solvent to solubilise fragrance bases, in place of petrochemical solvents and with no negative impact on the fragrance
- It enables very homogenous dispersions of pigments, mica, titanium oxides, glitter, etc.
Sensorial qualities
- It offers exceptional qualities of finish, touch and softness
- It decreases the whitening soap effect (usual in natural formulation)
- It improves the picking up of rich textures
- It is ideal in the formulation of make-up removers as it efficiently solubilises oily substances
- It makes foaming products softener for skin and hair
- It takes care of the skin thanks to its emollient and softening properties
Galenic properties
- It can be easily emulsified: emulsions are finer and more homogenous, consequently more stable (see study opposite)
- It does not present a known incompatibility with any other cosmetic ingredient
- It can be incorporated in foaming products at more than 1% without phase separation, while keeping them transparent (contrary to vegetable oil)
Applications & Uses
- Markets
- Applications
- Baby Care Applications
- Bath & Shower Applications
- Color Cosmetic Applications
- Hair Care Applications
- Skin Care Applications
- Formulation Guidelines
Due to its composition (esters of unsaturated fatty acids), Lipolami® is sensitive to oxidation. It is preserved by a natural antioxidant but must be used with caution:
- It must be incorporated in emulsions at a moderate temperature (about 40°C)
- The formula itself must be preserved with an antioxidant
When solubilising UV filters with Lipolami®, avoid excessive and/or too long heating.
- Recommended Uses
All types of products, fluid and light textures as well as rich and creamy one:
- Emulsions for face and body
- Foaming products (shampoos, shower gels…)
- Massage oils
- Dry oils
- Hair care
- Sun care
Properties
- Appearance
- Oily liquid
Regulatory & Compliance
- Certifications & Compliance
Technical Details & Test Data
- Efficacy Tests
Innocuity
The good tolerance of Lipolami® has been assessed by two tests:
- Test for primary skin irritation (48 hours patch test on volonteers)
- Test for primary eye irritation (NRR)
Eco-toxicity
- Aerobic ready biodegradability test (manometric respiratory assay - OECD 301 F)
- Readily biodegradable (>80%)
Packaging & Availability
- Regional Availability