Knowde Enhanced TDS
Identification & Functionality
- INCI Name
- Ingredient Origin
- Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
- CAS No.
- 59870-68-7
- Technologies
Features & Benefits
- Benefit Claims
- Labeling Claims
- Product Background
SmartLipids are submicron particles consisting of a complex mix of solid and liquid fat compounds. They are carefully selected to give an imperfect crystal structure, so that lipophilic actives can be encapsulated and protected within them. Their melting point is higher than skin temperature, allowing a high level of protection of your sensitive actives and their targeted and sustained release. SmartLipids can support and restore the natural skin barrier, and enhance the penetration and bioavailability of your dermally active raw materials. Due to their small submicron size and lipophilic nature, they adhere well to the skin and ensure prolonged release of the encapsulated active
- Product Benefits
- High stabilization of sensitive actives against degradation
- Controlled release of the active
- Restoration of the skin barrier by the carrier itself
- Controlled occlusion and reduction of TEWL
- Enhanced penetration and prolonged release of the protected active
- Simple addition to the finished dermal formulation
- Easy to incorporate into gels and emulsions formulations
- Highly effective lightening agent without inducing toxicity
Applications & Uses
- Markets
- Applications
- Skin Care Applications
- Use Level
- 1-10%
- Mode Of Action
Illustration of release mechanism for SmartLipids
Emulsion immediately after application
Glabridin, a whitening talent derived from Licorice:
Licorice extract is an highly interesting substance for many applications: it is used in traditional medicine, and has many benefits for the skin. It is obtained from the roots of Glycyrrhiza glabra and contains a variety of flavonoids, mainly Glabridin. Glabridin, commonly available in powder form, exhibits good lightening properties already at low concentrations, but its extremely high price, its instability combined with a poor water/oil solubility are giving formulators a hard time. To unfold its whitening properties, Glabridin is in need of a delivery system.
Glabridin whitening mechanism
Glabridin shows an action on 3 different enzymes: inhibition of tyrosinase activity, but also of TRP-I and TRP-2 activity. Furthermore one hormone comes also into play through the inhibition of a-MSH activity.
The benefits of Glabridin on the skin are not only fast and effective whitening, but it can also reduce redness, and play an important role as anti-oxidant.Glabridin combined with SmartLipids technology
Taking advantage of the enhancement of bioavailability and the selective occlusion, SmartLipids technology allows a higher penetration and prolonged release of the Glabridin in its most effective form. Furthermore, the physical protection of Glabridin from light and oxygen against chemical degradation within the lipid matrix ensures the full efficacy spectrum of this powerful active. ingredient.
Properties
- Physical Form
- Appearance
- Off-white to yellowish aqueous suspension
Regulatory & Compliance
- Certifications & Compliance
Technical Details & Test Data
- Efficacy Studies
Glabridin penetration (tape strip experiment)
Evidence of the better and deeper penetration of Glabridin from BergaBright SmartLipids
To prove the superior penetration properties of BergaBright SmartLipids Glabridin, a tape strip experiment was conducted and the amount of glabridin in the different layers was analyzed after 30 minutes. In strip no. 4, no Glabridin from common Glabridin powder was found. In the deeper layer no. 10, we could still find Glabridin from BergaBright SmartLipids. The penetration deepness as well as the total penetrated Glabridin amount is higher with BergaBright SmartLipids technology.