Knowde Enhanced TDS
Identification & Functionality
- INCI Name
- Ingredient Origin
- CAS No.
- 226994-28-1
- Technologies
- Composition
Esterified green tea leaves - > 95%
Oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPC) including catechin, epigallocatechin, gallocatechin and epigallocatechin gallate
Features & Benefits
- Benefit Claims
- Labeling Claims
- Product Background
Originating from Asia and brought in Europe in the middle of the 16th century, the TEA is today consumed everywhere in the world. The tea plant is a shrub cultivated for its leaves, which give according to their fermentation the green tea non-fermented) and the black tea (fermented).
- Mechanism of Action
BERKEM developed and patented Phytovector® technology to stabilize polyphenols, natural antioxidants. This method consists in phenolic functions esterification to protect them from external oxidant factors.
- Benefits
BERKEMYOL® GREEN TEA PROPERTIES
Skin is constantly exposed to external aggressions such as pollution, UV… This leads to important cutaneous damages specifically in barrier function alteration, toxins accumulation and free radicals’ formation, which attack cellular integrity and cutaneous tissue oxidation. Moreover, with age, collagen synthesis decreasing, dermis loses its tonicity. All those aggressions lead to a premature cutaneous eldering. China green tea leaves, or Camellia sinensis, are used in BERKEMYOL® GREEN TEA. They are collected by hand, by the local population in Nilgiris mountain chain, in India. Highly purified, Berkemyol® green tea is obtained by esterification of a green tea leaves polyphenolic extract, highly concentrated in polyphenols (> 95 %). Oxygenating properties of this active allow to protect skin from surrounding pollution. It fights against oxidative stress and reduces cutaneous eldering signs.
Applications & Uses
- Markets
- Applications
- Skin Care Applications
- Use Level
- 0.3 - 0.7%
- Applications
Anti-aging products, skin care and preventing of aging products, daily protection products Make-up with skin care properties
Regulatory & Compliance
- Certifications & Compliance
Technical Details & Test Data
- Anti Pollution Activity - EX VIVO
Specific immunolabelling of HIF-1α
Pollutants, as cigarette smoke or carbon monoxide causes a reduction of the skin’s oxygenation, making it pale and gray. During hypoxia, factor HIF-1α is inducted by cells to induce the expression of targeted genes, involved in a re-oxygenation of tissues. The activity of HIF-1α has been tested on skin’s explants (37 year-old female donor), which were maintained alive during 4 days via Pollubox® system.
Berkemyol® green tea combats the asphyxiated effect of cigarettes pollutants by allowing return to normal of the HIF-1α factor, overactive in hypoxia condition. In this way, it protects the skin from hypoxic stress, fighting effectively against free radicals. The skin is re-oxygenated.
- Antioxidant Property – EX VIVO
Pollution, stress, solar irradiation induce on the skin, the formation of free radicals. The
latter causes oxidative damages to the cell DNA, proteins and lipids, which are impaired and can’t ensure their functions. The rate of malondialdehyde (MDA), product of free radical breakdown, has been measured on human skin’s explants (40 year-old female donor), which were maintained alive during 5 days.
Measured by the diminution of the rate of malondialdehyde, lipid membrane’s oxidation
has been reduced by 45% in the presence of Berkemyol® green tea ; an activity 4 times higher than vitamin E, reference antioxidant in cosmetic. Combating the oxidative stress inducted by pollutants, Berkemyol® green tea protects skin’s cells from constant attacks against ambient air pollutants and lipid peroxidation, allowing to delay cutaneous aging.- Maintaining Dermal Structure - EX VIVO
With age, diminution and disorganization of the collagen and elastin’s network lead to a
structural change of dermis. Fibrilline-1, molecule allowing the adhesion of those different constituents of the extracellular matrix, is the essential element supporting skin’s elasticity. As for collagen IV, it has a role of mechanical resistance during stretching. The action on the synthesis of fibrilline-1 and collagen IV has been tested on skin’s explants 46 year-old female donor), which were maintained alive during 8 days.Specific immunolabelling of collagen IV
Expression of collagen IV in the papillary dermis (explants after 6 days of treatment)
Berkemyol® green tea enables to increase meaningfully the synthesis of collagen IV under the dermo-epidermal junction, allowing a better anchoring of the epidermis on the dermis.
Specific immunolabelling of fibrilline-1
Expression of fibrilline-1 in the papillary dermis (explants after 6 days of treatment)
Increasing the synthesis of fibrilline-1 of 21%*, Berkemyol® green tea helps to maintain skin’s elasticity, hence to fight against premature aging inducted by sun and pollution.
- Clinical Test
Skin Oxygenation
Berkemyol® green tea has been tested in a face cream at 0.5% by 18 volunteers, female aged from 30 to 50 year-old, smokers, with a dull complexion and a sagging face skin. After 28 days of use in an urban polluted environment, as a twice daily application on one side of the face versus a placebo cream, the oxygenation rate of the skin has been measured by the Spectracam® system. This hyper spectral measurement tool allows to acquire various images at different wavelengths, enabling to generate a hypercube and thus to obtain a map of the rate of oxygen in the skin tissue. Different measures were taken and have raised the determination of the oxygenation rate in the skin, as well as the realization of a mapping of the measured zone.
After 28 days of use, the cream formulated with Berkemyol® green tea induced a significant increase of the oxygenation rate of the skin of 4%*. 79%* of the volunteers have stated that their skin was more protected against pollution. Fighting against external pollutants, Berkemyol® green tea allows re-oxygenating cutaneous tissues, and thus avoiding an early cutaneous aging process.
Safety & Health
- Safety
- Evaluation of ocular irritant potential (HCE SKIN-ETHIC™ method) - non irritant
- Evaluation of cutaneous irritant potential (EPISKIN™ model) - non irritant
Packaging & Availability
- Regional Availability