Knowde Enhanced TDS
Identification & Functionality
- Carrier
- Chemical Family
- Ingredient Origin
- Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
- Technologies
- Product Families
Features & Benefits
- Benefit Claims
- Labeling Claims
Applications & Uses
- Markets
- Color Cosmetic Applications
- Skin Care Applications
- Use Level
- 3-5%
- Application pH Range
- 3.0 – 10.0
- Mode of Action
The uppermost layer of the epidermis, the Stratum Corneum (SC), can be described as a two- ompartment system in which cells (corneocytes) can be analogized to bricks, and intercellular lamellae (lipid membrane) to mortar (Brick and Mortar model).
A dry and fissured skin condition is due to a damaged lipid barrier and a reduced water binding capacity of the corneocytes. Glycoderm (P) as a vector system combines such active ingredients that control dry skin conditions synergistically:
- Ceramide-containing plant-derived lipids are used to form liposome membranes. The lipid barrier in the SC being built in membrane-like form, Glycoderm (P) as liposomal product is qualified to restore a damaged lipid membrane.
- Hyaluronic acid, biotechnologically produced, is used as loading of the liposomes. This strongly anionic polysaccharide composed of hexosamine and uronic acid building blocks forms a hydrated film with affinity for the skin, thereby producing a moisturizing effect.
- Natural honey is used as additional loading component, the specific ingredients of which belong to the constituents of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF).
In conformity with the Brick and Mortar model, Glycoderm (P) has a direct effect on these components in case of a disturbed moisture balance in the skin.
Glycoderm (P) was tested for its skin moisturizing effect in vivo (humans). The study revealed that, after one single application, the skin treated with a Glycoderm (P)-containing formulation showed significantly better moisturization than the untreated control, even 8 hours after application.
Glycoderm (P) can be described as a polyvalent moisturizer with long-lasting effect.
- Applications
Glycoderm (P) restores the lipid barrier of the SC of dry and fissured skin and simultaneously retains moisture, thus providing a well balanced water content of the skin as one of the prerequisites to physiological interaction between the individual skin layers. It can be used in aqueous and emulsified skin care preparations; especially gel-type formulations.
- Processing
Do not apply processing temperatures exceeding 35 °C. Avoid high-shear mixing, which may partially destroy the liposomes. In emulsified preparations, check compatibility between liposomes and emulsifier, e.g. by means of the freeze-fracture technique.
Properties
- Physical Form
- Odor
- Odorless
- Appearance
- Turbid suspension
- Soluble in
- Water
- Miscible In
- Water
Safety & Health
- Physiological Safety
Acute oral toxicity
LD50 in rats: greater than 2000 mg/kg body weight.
No significant toxicological effects could be observed.Eye irritation potential
Glycoderm (P), undiluted, was tested in accordance with the OECD Guidelines No. 405
and classified as "practically non-irritant". This classification suggests that Glycoderm (P) can be used in the eye area without hesitation.Acute dermal irritation
Glycoderm (P), undiluted, was tested in accordance with the OECD Guidelines No. 404 where it produced an irritation index of 0.0 and was classified as "non-irritant".
Sensitization
Glycoderm (P) was tested in the "Magnusson and Kligman Maximization Study" (in accordance with the OECD Guidelines No. 406) where it produced a sensitization rate of 0 % (0/9) and was classified as a "non-sensitizer".
Packaging & Availability
- Packaging Information
- Available pack sizes: 1 kg, 5 kg, 25 kg
- Sample size: 50 g
Storage & Handling
- Storage and Handling
In a cool chamber (4 - 8 °C), protected from light, in well closed containers. Protect from frost. Glycoderm (P) should not be stored for longer than 1 year before processing. Once opened, product packs should be fully used.
- Preservative System
- Phenoxyethanol
- Sodium dehydroacetate