Knowde Enhanced TDS
Identification & Functionality
- INCI Name
- Ingredient Origin
- Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
- Technologies
Features & Benefits
Applications & Uses
- Markets
- Application Format
- Hair Care Applications
- Skin Care Applications
- Application pH Range
- 3.0 - 10.0
- Mode of Action
Moisturizing of the skin is a central problem in cosmetology. It is known that the stratum corneum of young skin contains "Natural Moisturizing Factors" in the correct proportion. This means that the skin can take up the water required for its satisfactory constitution, and store it in its cell tissue. Young skin is thus rich in moisture and has a good turgor. With increasing age the tissue, and particularly the skin, becomes poorer in moisture. That is to say, in this connection, "aging" is to be equated with "drying up". In either case the turgor diminishes, the skin becomes rough and chapped (and finally withered and wrinkled). An inadequate moisturization of the skin is, however, not only and not always caused by aging. External influences can also be responsible, for example frequent and extended contact with water, especially in conjunction with detergents. The natural moisturizing factors (hydrophilic and weakly hygroscopic substances) are water-soluble, and can therefore be dissolved out of the cell complex by water and polar solvents, and be lost to the skin. Since the decrease in natural moisturizing factors caused by aging and environmental factors cannot be prevented, the cosmetic aim must be to supply the skin with active substances which have the property of restoring its water-binding capacity to a normal physiological level.
Hygroplex HHG has been developed on the basis of this research into natural moisturizing factors. This active agent can be designated as a "physiological" skin moisturizer. Its composition is similar to that of the natural moisturizing factors and thus protects the skin from loss of moisture or replaces the lost factors. In contrast to strongly hygroscopic substances such as glycerin, Hygroplex HHG does not dehydrate the skin when there is low atmospheric humidity. Hygroplex HHG can take up just as much water as the skin (same water-binding capacity); it is thus adapted to the physiological functions of the skin. Hygroplex HHG contains a weakly hyperaemizing substance; it thereby supports the local blood flow, which is of importance for the hydration.
Hygroplex HHG yields the best skin moisturizing effect when incorporated at 5% into O/W creams. In W/O creams Hygroplex HHG, used at the same concentration, produces a smaller hydration effect. It is therefore advisable to use a higher concentration level, i.e. up to 10%, in W/O type creams. It can be concluded that Hygroplex HHG as a "water-soluble" active agent achieves a better effect from the outer phase of O/W creams than from W/O creams in which it is included in the inner phase.
Hygroplex HHG increases the moisture content of the skin, with a resultant improved turgor. This effect is documented by clinical tests.
Furthermore, comprehensive studies were conducted to assess the effect of Hygroplex HHG on human hair. The studies showed that aqueous-alcoholic lotions containing 1% Hygroplex HHG produced a remarkable regenerating effect on the hair shaft. In addition, the superficial layers of the hair were found to contain an increased amount of free water, which produced a distinct improvement of the mechanical properties of the hair.
- Applications
As a skin moisturizer adapted to the "Natural Moisturizing Factors", Hygroplex HHG is ost suitable for application to "low-moisture" skin. That is skin which has dried up from aging or prematurely by external influences, and thus becomes rough and chapped (and finally withered and wrinkled). Hygroplex HHG is also designed for stressed hair which lacks elasticity and strength due to hairdressing procedures. It can be used in emulsified, aqueous and aqueous-alcoholic skin moisturizing and hair cosmetics.
- Processing
Hygroplex HHG is relatively thermostable and may be heated briefly to the temperatures required for the manufacture of emulsified preparations. In the manufacture of emulsified preparations Hygroplex HHG is dissolved in the water phase. In the manufacture of aqueous-alcoholic preparations Hygroplex HHG is added to the alcohol-water mixture.Hygroplex HHG does not affect the color of cosmetics.The odor of Hygroplex HHG can be masked in cosmetics by perfume oils. Best suited for this purpose are rose-type ragrances.
Properties
- Physical Form
- Odor
- Characteristic
- Appearance
- Aqueous Solution
Regulatory & Compliance
- Certifications & Compliance
Safety & Health
- Physiological Safety
Acute oral toxicity
LD50 according to Litchfield and Wilcoxon in rats: 9 ml per kg of body weight.Hygroplex HHG is hence to be designated as non-toxic.
Eye irritation potential
Hygroplex HHG was diluted to 5% and 10% concentrations using sterile water and ested on the chorioallantoic membrane of the hen's egg. The 5% concentration showed an irritation index of 0.00, the 10% concentration an irritation index of 0.11. Hygroplex HHG at these concentrations was classified as "non-irritant".
Skin tolerance
An O/W cream containing 10% Hygroplex HHG was applied on 50 volunteers for 48 ours in a patch test. The score concerning erythema, fissures and scaling was always zero. Hygroplex HHG can be classified as harmless as regards the possibility of skin irritation.
Sensitization
Hygroplex HHG (undiluted) was tested for delayed contact hypersensitivity on the skin of guinea pigs in a closed patch test. Under the given test conditions, Hygroplex HHG was found to cause no delayed contact hypersensitivity of the skin.
Packaging & Availability
- Packaging Information
- Available pack sizes: 1 kg, 5 kg, 25 kg
- Sample size: 50 g
Storage & Handling
- Storage and Handling
At cellar to room temperature (15 - 25 °C), in well closed containers, protected from light.Hygroplex HHG should not be stored for longer than 1 year before processing.