Knowde Enhanced TDS
Identification & Functionality
- Carrier
- Ingredient Origin
- Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
- Technologies
- Product Families
Features & Benefits
- Benefit Claims
- Labeling Claims
- Product Highlights
Having beautiful hair is a sign of health, young and vitality and therefore age-related changes may impact individual’s self-representation and quality of life. Graying hair is a natural process linked with aging. The normal incidence of hair graying is:
- late 30’s for asians,
- mid-40’s for africans,
- mid 30’s for caucasians.
Today, a natural solution developed from plants can be proposed to recover the natural
hair color. By targeting the mechanisms behind canities and by using a psychobiological approach, ARCOLYS® is a revolutionary natural active ingredient, also acting on subject’s positive affects.ACTION
- Restores: The Natural Hair Color
- Increase: Antioxidant Properties
- Fights: Gray Hair
- Acts: on Mood by Improving Self Esteem
MOLECULES
- Picroside II : > 4% of Dry Matter
- Polyphenols : > 3 %
SOURCING
- Picrorhiza Scrophulariiflora Roots
- Native From Asia, Used In Ayurvedic Medecine
Applications & Uses
- Hair Care Applications
- Use Level
- 1%
- Application pH Range
- 4.0 - 8.0
- Caution for Use
Add in formulations at 35-40°C, while cooling or at any time in cold preparation.
Properties
- Physical Form
- Appearance
- Liquid
- Odor
- Characteristic
- Typical Properties
- Physico-Chemical Properties
- Quantifications
- Microbiological Values
| Value | Units | Test Method / Conditions | |
| Plant Rate Implementation Extraction | approx. 10 | % | — |
| Value | Units | Test Method / Conditions | |
| Dry Matter | 4.0 - 6.0 | % | GT006 |
| Refraction Index | 1.370 - 1.410 | — | GT007 |
| Solubility 10% in Water | Soluble | — | GT004 |
| Specific Gravity | 1.020 - 1.080 | — | GT008 |
| pH Value | 3.9 - 5.9 | — | GT005 |
| Value | Units | Test Method / Conditions | |
| Picroside II (HPLC) | min. 4.0 | %/MS - %/DM | GT0243 |
| Polyphenols (Exp: Catechin) | min. 3.0 | %/MS - %/DM | GT031 |
| Value | Units | Test Method / Conditions | |
| Detection of Enterobacteria | Absence | — | ISO 18415 |
| Enumeration of Mesophilic Aerobic Bacteria | max. 100 | ufc/mL - cfu/mL | ISO 21149 |
| Enumeration of Yeasts And Moulds | max. 100 | ufc/mL - cfu/mL | ISO 16212 |
Regulatory & Compliance
- Certifications & Compliance
- Chemical Inventories
- Certification
- RSPO Mass Balance (MB) Certified
Technical Details & Test Data
- Ethiopathogenesis
Depigmentation of hair is due to a lack of melanin and, in particular, a decrease of melanogenesis activity (reduction of tyrosinase activity, reduction of melanosome number and defect in melanosome transfer) and a reduced number of differentiated and functional melanocytes. Oxidative stress also contributes to numerous process, reducing hair growth and hair graying.
- Young Hair has active melanocyte stem at the bulbe area. It is under a low oxidative stress.
- Aged Hair follicle is under a high oxidative stress with high concentration of H2O2. DNA repair are also low.
- Proven Efficacy
- ARCOLYS® 1% (N=21) versus placebo (N=23)
- Twice daily applications during 154 days (5 months)
- Women (29) and Men (15) with 20% to 50% of white hair
- Mean age: 49 years old
Evalution Parameters
- Visual scoring of white hair proportion: at M0, M2.5 & M5
- Density of white hair (number.cm-2): at M0, M2.5 & M5
- Self-assessment: at M5
- Psychological evaluation: at M0 and M5
- Self-esteem (Rosenberg, 1965)
- Emotional valence (Brief Mood Introspection Scale: Mayer and Gaschle, 1988)
Arcolys® Reduces Ros Production In Dermal Papilla Cells
Dermal papilla cells present in the hair follicle bulb play an essential role in the regulation of active melanocyte renewal. Accumulating intracellular ROS affect their activity
RELATIVE QUANTIFICATION OF ROS IN HDPC (% OF CONTROL WITH H2O2)Incubation of Human dermal papilla cells (HFDPC) with ARCOLYS® during 24 hours. Oxidative stress was applied: 250μM H2O2 during 30 min. Intracellular ROS were measured using a fluorogenic probe (2,7-DCDHF-DA) (n=3).
*: p< 0.05Arcolys® Limits Oxidative Stress Environment, Improving Hair Pigmentation.
Arcolys® Enhances The Expression Of Antioxidant In Melanocytes
NRF2 is key transcription factor of the antioxidant responses via regulating antioxidant gene expression, including HMOX1 and SLC7A11, the latest promoting glutathione biosynthesis, leading to protection from oxidative stress.
Incubation of melanocyte cells with ARCOLYS® during 48 hours. Oxidative stress after 24 hours of treatment : 250μM H2O2 during 2 hours. mRNA expression of NFR2, HMOX1, SLC7A11 gene using RT-qPCR on pooled culture triplicates.
NFR2 : nuclear factor erythroid 2–related factor, HMOX1: Heme oxygenase 1, SLC7A11: Solute Carrier Family 7 Member 11Arcolys® Improves Antioxidant Properties, Limiting Hair Whitening.
Arcolys® Stimulates Tyrosinase Activity
Tyrosinase is a key enzyme for the biosynthesis pathway of melanin pigment, which is the most important determinant of the color of skin and hair.
Incubation of melanocyte cells with ARCOLYS® during 48 hours. Oxidative stress after 24 hours of treatment : 250μM H2O2 during 2 hours. mRNA expression of TYR gene using RT-qPCR on pooled culture triplicates. Arcolys® Increases Tyrosinase Gene Expression, Promoting Melanogenesis.Arcolys® Stimulates Tyrosinase Activity
Aging is associated with reduced number of differentiated and functioning hair bulb melanocytes, and decreased tyrosinase activity.
Incubation of melanocyte cells with ARCOLYS® during 72 hours (n=3). Oxidative stress after 72 hours of treatment : 5mM H2O2 during 30 minutes. Enzymatic activity evaluated by optical density (OD) at 540nm after incubation with L-DOPA substrate.
**p< 0.01Arcolys Increases Tyrosinase Activity And Thus Pigmentation Process.
Arcolys® Stimulates Melanin Synthesis
Melanin is responsible for the color of eyes, hair. It is formed through a series of reactions involving the amino acid tyrosine in the presence of the enzyme tyrosinase.
MELANIN SYNTHESIS
Incubation of melanocyte and keratinocyte co-culture with ARCOLYS® or L-Tyrosine during 10 days. Oxidative stress at day 0, 3 and 7: 250 μM H2O2 during 2 hours. Intracellular melanin content evaluated by optical density (OD) at 405nm (n=3).
**p< 0.01, ***p< 0.001
Arcolys® Enhances Melanin Synthesis And Thus May Reverse Hair Pigmentation Loss.
- ARCOLYS® Improves Hair Color
- Arcolys® Decreases White Hair Density & White Hair Proportion
M2.5 M5 White Hair Density - 16%** - 19%*** Boost the Natural Hair Color White Hair Proportion - 9%**** - 15%**** Fight Hair Graying **p<0.01, ***p<0.001, **** p<0.0001 vs M0, ns: not significant
- Arcolys® 1% Significantly Decreases White Hair Density After 2.5 Months And Even More After 5 Months Of Application
- Arcolys®: More Than A Repigmentation Active, A Systemic Approach Of Hair
Arcolys® Boosts Self-Esteem
Graying hair can result in a loss of self-esteem and anxiety, and other emotional issues.
ARCOLYS® IMPROVES SELF-ESTEEM.
Arcolys® Decreases Unpleasant Emotions
Emotional valence is a dimension continuum of pleasant and unpleasant emotions, which can be measured using the Brief Mood Introspection Scale.
ARCOLYS® SIGNIFICANTLY DECREASES UNPLEASANT EMOTIONS, INDUCING A HIGHER SELF-ESTEEM
- Tests of Tolerance
Cutaneous irritation: Very good skin compatibility
Sensitization: Very good skin compatibility
Eye irritation: Slightly irritant
Phototoxicity test: Not phototoxic
Mutagenicity test: Not mutagenic
Storage & Handling
- Storage
Keep in a dark place, in the original packaging, at an ambient temperature between 15°C and 25 °C.
- Storage Conditions
- Keep in the original packaging, without opening, in the recommended storage conditions.
- Stockage
- +15 / +25°C