Setiline®

Identification & Functionality

INCI Name

Hydrolyzed Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Seed Extract

Ingredient Origin

Vegetable Origin

Cosmetic Ingredients Functions

Anti-Aging Agent,

Anti-Wrinkle Agent

Technologies

Cosmetic Ingredients

Product Families

Cosmetic Ingredients — Cosmetic Actives

Skin Actives

Chemical Structure

Origin

• Hydrolyzed Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Seed Extract - Vegetable

Features & Benefits

Benefit Claims

Anti-Aging,

Anti-Wrinkle,

Excellent Flexibility,

Fine Lines Reduction,

Firming,

Hypo-Allergenic,

Improves Dermal Thickness,

Improves Skin Elasticity,

Moisturizing,

Regenerating,

Skin Barrier,

Strengthening,

Suppleness

Labeling Claims

BSE-free,

CMR Substances-free,

EDTA-free,

GMO-free,

Gluten-free,

Glycol ether-free,

Impurities-free,

Nanomaterials-free,

Natural,

Nitrosamines-free,

Non-Irritant,

Non-Mutagenic,

Non-Toxic,

Not Tested on Animals,

Phthalates-free,

Preservative-free,

Solvent-free,

Sustainable,

TSE-free,

VOC-free,

Vegan

Action

• Anti-aging, delays the aging process
• Reduces wrinkles and lines
• Improves elasticity and firmness
• Increases epidermal thickness
• Reinforces the skin barrier

Cosmetic Benefits

• The whole process and the signs of aging are delayed.
• The epidermis regains thickness and firmness, skin is more elastic and supple, lines and wrinkles fade.

Applications & Uses

Application Format

Leave On

Skin Care Applications

Anti-Aging Products,

Body Firming Lotion,

Moisturizers

Cosmetic Use

• Anti-aging care products
• Anti-wrinkle care products
• Firming care products
• Regenerative care products
• Moisturizing care products

Formulations

• Concentration for use: 1%
• pH for use: 4.0 to 10.0
• Caution for use: Solubilize previously in the aqueous phase. Add to emulsions, at the end of the preparation process, either cold or at 35-40 °C, during cooling.

Properties

Physical Form

Powder,

Solid

Odor

Characteristic

Appearance

Powder

Insoluble in

10% in ethanol

Partially Soluble in

10% in water under stirring (500 rpm)

Typical Properties

	Value	Units	Test Method / Conditions
Natural Index	0	—	—
Average Molecular Weight	max. 20	kDa	—
Natural Origin Index	0	—	—

Quantifications

	Value	Units	Test Method / Conditions
Granulometry (<1mm)	min. 80	%	GT039
Total sugars (exp. eq. mannose-galactose)	min. 80	%/MS - %/DM	GT044

Physico-Chemical Properties

	Value	Units	Test Method / Conditions
Humidity	max. 15.0	%	GT006
pH Value (Solution 1% w/w in Water)	4.0 - 6.5	—	GT005

Microbiological Values

	Value	Units	Test Method / Conditions
Detection of Enterobacteria	Absence	—	ISO 18415
Enumeration of Mesophilic Aerobic Bacteria	max. 100	ufc/g - cfu/g	ISO 21149
Enumeration of Yeasts and Molds	max. 100	ufc/g - cfu/g	ISO 16212

Regulatory & Compliance

Certifications & Compliance

CFDA Compliant (China),

EU Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009 Compliant,

FDA Compliant,

GMP,

IECIC (China),

ISO 16128,

ISO 22716

REACH Status

INCI	Concentration	REACH Status
Hydrolyzed Trigonella Foenumraecum Seed Extract	100 %	Exempt: < 1 ton/year (dry matter)

 

Technical Details & Test Data

Mechanism of Action

SETILINE® improves the skin overall architecture, by preserving it from dermal collagen and integrin glycation phenomena (major cause of aging) and strengthens the skin barrier by reducing keratinocyte differentiation.

Scientific Process

SETILINE® modifies the expression of specific genes involved in the glycation of collagens and integrins in the dermis, thereby maintaining a solid and flexible skin structure. This active substance inhibits the build-up of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) and displays properties similar to those of retinoic acid by stimulating involucrin synthesis.

SETILINE® improves the biomechanical properties of the dermis and epidermis and preserves their structures, thus delaying the aging process.

DNA Chip Transcriptome Analysis

Proven Efficacy - In Vitro Test

ANTI-GLYCATION: REDUCTION IN ADVANCED GLYCATION END-PRODUCTS (AGES) (DERMAL action)

• SETILINE® inhibits AGE accumulation.
• SETILINE® improves dermal flexibility and elasticity.

 

KERATINOCYTE DIFFERENTIATION (EPIDERMAL action)

• SETILINE® possesses properties similar to those of retinoic acid. SETILINE® stimulates involucrin expression and improves the skin barrier function, thus preventing aging.

EPIDERMAL THICKENING (EPIDERMAL action)

• During aging, the skin becomes thinner. SETILINE® increases epidermal thickness. 

 

Proven Efficacy - In Vivo Test

EVALUATION ON VOLUNTEERS*

• Cutometer® measurements (16 volunteers)
  > Elasticity: + 45%, up to +214%
  > Firmness: up to +93%

 

• Fringe projection measurements / Primos® compact (15 volunteers)
  > Anti-wrinkle: up to -37%
  > Skin micro-profile smoothing: up to -30.5% 

 

* - 28 days / 1% SETILINE® / twice-daily application

 

SELF-EVALUATION*

• 81% of volunteers observed a reduction in wrinkles and lines, along with smoother skin

*28 days / 1% SETILINE® / twice-daily application / 21 volunteers 

Safety & Health

Toxicological Tests

Tests	Method	Tested Concentration	Results
Skin Irritation	Patch Test	5 %	Not irritant
Eye Irritation	Het cam	5 %	Pratically non irritant
Sensitization	Marzulli-Maibach	10 %	Hypoallergenic
Mutagenicity Test	Ames test	5 %	Not mutagenic and not promutagenic
Phototoxicit	3T3 cells	Product tested at 8 dilutions

 

Storage & Handling

Shelf Life

24 months

Storage

15 / +25°C
Keep in the original packaging, without opening, in the recommended storage conditions