Knowde Enhanced TDS
Identification & Functionality
- Ingredient Origin
- Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
- CAS No.
- 8001-21-6
- Technologies
Features & Benefits
- Labeling Claims
- Product Background
An original patented molecular distillation process was set up to obtain a concentrate of unsaponifiables from the oil of these seeds: SOLINE®
SOLINE® has two combined activities: moisturizing and soothing Good moisturisation is essential to preserve the appearance, suppleness, smoothness and tonicity of the skin. The level of moisturisation may be abnormally low if the skin’s ability to retain water (barrier function) is impaired. This is the case with dry or mature skin, as the epidermis thins with age.
SOLINE® is an oily active ingredient rich in unsaponifiable molecules. Small amounts of these molecules are naturally present in sunflower seed oil, and they are considered as noble molecules in view of their properties.
Applications & Uses
- Markets
- Applications
- Sun Care Applications
- Use Level
- 0.5% to 2%
- Recommended Uses
• Moisturizing/restructuring care for dry or mature skin
• Soothing care for sensitive skin
• After-sun care
Properties
- Physical Form
Regulatory & Compliance
- Certifications & Compliance
Technical Details & Test Data
- Efficacy Study
Effectiveness in-vitro/ex-vivo
Moisturizes by reinforcing the barrier function
SOLINE® selectively stimulates the synthesis of key lipids (ex vivo test). These lipids are therefore directly present in situ, and wholly available to perform their role and contribute effectively to reinforcing the barrier function of the epidermis.
A cream containing 2% of active ingredient was applied to skin explants (18h incubation at 37°C). An increase in ceramides 1 and 2 and cerebrosides was observed, in keeping the initial total quantity of lipids
Soothing effect
SOLINE® reduces the quantity of inflammation mediators (cytokines) in the presence of an aggressive chemical agent (PMA) or UV radiation (in vitro tests - keratinocytes).
The production of these mediators is also regulated by the key transcription factor NFKB (inflammation marker)
In vitro, stimulation of the keratinocytes induces activation ofNFKB, which leads to increased fluorescence in the nuclei (translocation). Treatment with 0.0002% SOLINE® significantly inhibits activation of NFKB (36%).
- Clinical study
SOLINE® effect on skin moisturization
20 volunteers with dry to scaly skin tested a cream containing 2% of active ingredient.
After a single application:
There was an immediate increase in moisturisation (corneometer): +48.6% moisturisation 1 hour after application, and the efficacy is lasting, as the increase is +34.2% after 24 hours.
After 4 weeks (applied twice daily):
• The microrelief and surface appearance were evaluated with biopsies conducted before and after the study. Restructuring of the micro-depressionary network, and a 52% improvement in surface appearance, were observed.
• The appearance of the skin was also evaluated by scores given by the volunteers and the study director. The dryness, roughness and desquamation parameters are significantly improved after 4 weeks.
- Fatty acids composition
Fatty acids Composition Fatty acids of chain length less than C14 max.0.4% Myristic acid C14 max.0.5% Palmatic acid C16 5.0 to 12.0% Palmitoleic acid C16 max.1.0% Stearic acid C18 1.0 to 10.0% Oleic acid C18 14.0 to 39.4% Linoleic acid C18 48.3 to 74.0% Linolenic acid C18 max.0.5% Arachidic acid C20 max.1.5% Gadoleic acid C20 max.0.5% Behenic acid C22 max.1.5% Erucic acid C22 max.0.5% Lignoceric acid C24 max.0.5% Nervonic acid C24 max.0.5%