Knowde Enhanced TDS
Identification & Functionality
- Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
- Technologies
- Product Families
Features & Benefits
- Benefit Claims
- Labeling Claims
- Product Highlights
- Skin Firming - Phosphatidylcholine decreases the amount of active MMP-1
- Moisturizing - Phosphatidylcholine leads to a significant increase of extracellular hyaluronic acid
- Skin Rejuvenation - Phosphatidylcholine reduces wrinkles and makes the skin more elastic
Applications & Uses
- Markets
- Applications
- Use Level
- 0.5 - 3 %
- General Application
For formulations with PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 G, LIPOID P 100 and LIPOID H 100 use only deionized water
- Suitable for
- Advanced Skin Care
- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
Properties
- Physical Form
- Appearance
- Yellowish waxy solid
- Soluble in
- Ethanol (at 20°C), Oil (50 - 70°C)
- Dispersible in
- Water (at 20°C)
- Typical Properties
- Product Specifications
PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 G: highly purified phospholipids from soybean with ≥ 94 % phosphatidylcholine
| Value | Units | Test Method / Conditions | |
| pH | 5 – 8 |
Regulatory & Compliance
- Certifications & Compliance
- Regulatory Information
- INCI - Phosphatidylcholine, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol
- EU Cosmetic Regulation - The product complies to the EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009
- China INCI - All INCIs are listed in the current Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredient China (IECIC)
- EU REACH - The product, i.e. its substances conform to the Regulation (EC) No. 1907/2006
- China REACH - All ingredients conform to the legislation of China REACH
- Safety - We affirm to the best of our knowledge that the product is non-toxic, safe and suitable for use in skin and hair cosmetics at the recommended use levels [6]
- CMR - The product does not contain substances classified as CMR under the Regulation (EC) No. 1272/2008 (CLP)
- Vegan - The product can be used in vegan formulations
- Palm oil - The palm oil/palm kernel oil derived material used in the manufacture is sourced from suppliers certified according to the RSPO Supply Chain Certification System – Mass Balance (MB)
Technical Details & Test Data
- in vitro Activity | Natural Phosphatidylcholine Improves Skin Moisture and Elasticity
Objective
- To analyze the influence of PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 G or LIPOID H 100 on the production of hyaluronic acid (HA). Aged skin shows low HA levels leading to reduced skin elasticity and reduced skin moisture [1]
- To measure the effect of PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 G or LIPOID H 100 on the activity of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1, collagen-degrading enzyme; induces age-related changes in skin) [2,3]
Technique
- Substances were applied on monolayer culture of NHDFs (Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts), the supernatant was used for quantification analyzes
- Production of HA: ELISA
- MMP-1 activity: MMP-1 assay measuring the fluorescence of a substrate conversion reaction
Study Details
Design Cell-culture assay Test Panel Monolayer of NHDFs Test Substances Aqueous dispersion of 0.0016 % PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 G or 0.008 % LIPOID H 100 in comparison to untreated control sample Application Frequency Incubation for 72 h Primary Endpoints Production of HA MMP-1 activity Result
Fig. 1: Phosphatidylcholine rejuvenates skin on a cellular level. (A) Significant increase of HA production by NHDFs after 72 h of treatment with PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 G or LIPOID H 100. (B) Significant decrease of MMP-1 activity by NHDFs after 72 h of treatment with PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 G or LIPOID H 100. n = 3; Mean ± SD; Student’s unpaired t-test versus untreated; * = p ≤ 0.05, ** = p ≤ 0.01
Conclusion
On a cellular level, Phosphatidylcholine is counteract- ing two main causes for skin aging: loss of skin hydration and loss of skin elasticity [4,5]. Phosphatidylcholine upregulates the production of hyaluronic acid which is expected to enhance both, skin moisture and skin elasticity. Synergistically, a decrease of active MMP-1 prevent degradation of the collagenous extracellular matrix.
Phosphatidylcholine significantly increases the production of hyaluronic acid.
Phosphatidylcholine significantly decreases the amount of active MMP-1.- In Vivo Activity | Natural Phosphatidylcholine Keeps Skin Firm and Elastic
Objective
To analyze the ability of phosphatidylcholine to im- prove the skin elasticity and to reduce wrinkles
Technique
- GFM PRIMOS® device (crow's foot area): optical 3D in vivo skin measurement device for imaging and detecting skin roughness as well as anti-wrinkle effects
- Cutometer® MPA580 (suction method): measuring skin firmness and elasticity
Study Details
Test Panel 15 female volunteers with healthy skin, aged between 38 – 69 years Test Substances The volunteers applied a cream with 2.5 % PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 G Application Site Face Application Frequency Once daily for 4 weeks Primary Endpoints Cutometry - Skin firmness (R0) and elasticity (R2) PRIMOS 3D - Skin roughness (Ra, Rt, Rz) Result
Fig. 2: PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 G improves skin firmness and elasticity. (A) Relative increase of skin firmness and skin elasticity after 4 weeks compared to untreated skin. (B) Relative reduction of the parameters Ra, Rt and Rz after 4 weeks compared to untreated skin. n = 15; Mean ± SEM; Student’s t-test versus untreated and between treatments; * = p ≤ 0.05; ** = p ≤ 0.01. (C) Exemplary images of one volunteer before the treatment (left) and 4 weeks after treatment (right) with the test formulation containing 2.5 % PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 G.
Conclusion
The application of the test formulation with 2.5 % PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 G resulted in a measurable and visible skin rejuvenation, confirming the results of the in vitro study.
Phosphatidylcholine significantly improves skin firmness, elasticity and roughness.
Phosphatidylcholine reduces fine & deep wrinkles and effects a smoother skin feel.
Storage & Handling
- Shelf Life
- 24 Months
- Storage & Stability
PHOSPHOLIPON® 90 G is stable for at least 24 months when stored in closed containers at n.m.t + 8°C under inert gas