Actizyme® GL advanced botanical ingredient

Identification & Functionality

Carrier

Aqua,

Glycerin,

Solvent-based

Chemical Family

Botanical Extracts

INCI Name

Mucor Miehei Extract,

Phytic Acid,

Potassium Sorbate,

Sodium Benzoate,

Sodium Citrate

Ingredient Origin

Natural Origin,

Non-Animal Origin,

Plant Origin

Technologies

Cosmetic Ingredients

Product Families

Cosmetic Ingredients — Vitamins, Extracts & Oils

Botanical Ingredients & Extracts

Features & Benefits

Benefit Claims

Barrier Function Improvement,

Brightening,

Cell Regeneration,

Complexion,

Even Skin Tone,

Exfoliating,

Glowing Effect,

Healthy-Looking Skin,

Improves Clarity,

Improves Skin Appearance,

Irritation Reduction,

Mild,

Peeling,

Skin Barrier,

Skin Lightening

Labeling Claims

Credo Clean Standard,

Halal,

Natural,

Naturally Derived,

Organic,

Plant-Based,

Sustainable,

Ulta Beauty's Conscious Beauty

Product Highlights

Science

• Desquamation is necessary for an effective skin renewal and to maintain a bright and healthy appearance. A variety of endogenous proteases break cellcell junctions in the epidermis, allowing dead cells to desquamate. Their activity is dependent on the pH of the epidermis, which shows a gradient, from pH 5.5 at the surface to pH 7.4 at the deepest layers, ensuring a controlled and specific exfoliation.
• Actizyme® advanced botanical ingredient contains a protease derived from the fungi Mucor miehei. It mimics the endogenous enzyme cathepsin D, showing a very similar activity-pH profile, with an optimal proteolytic effect below pH 5.0. When applied to the skin in an acidic formulation, the ingredient is active and begins exfoliation of superficial stratum corneum (SC). As the skin’s buffering capacity raises the pH and the ingredient reaches deeper layers of the SC (with a higher pH), it becomes inactive and exfoliation stops. The ingredient enhances cell renewal specifically in the skin surface, without the irritation and barrier damage often associated with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).

Benefits

• Mimics natural exfoliation
• Improves clarity of the skin
• Reduces irritation and barrier disruption

Applications & Uses

Markets

Personal Care

Applications

Personal Care — Beauty & Care

Skin Care

Use Level

1.0 - 10.0%

Properties

Physical Form

Liquid

Soluble in

Water

Regulatory & Compliance

Certifications & Compliance

CFDA Compliant (China),

COSMOS,

ECOCERT,

Halal,

ISO 16128,

Organic Certified

Technical Details & Test Data

In Vitro Efficacy

pH Controlled Exfoliation - similar to Cathepsin D

Increasing pH from 4 to 7:

• Cathepsin D: ↓ 96.8% protease activity
• 1% Actizyme® GL advanced botanical ingredient: ↓ 48.8% protease activity

Modulating Corneocyte Desquamation

Result - The reduction of protease activity when pH is increased shows a controlled desquamation, similar to cathepsin D.

In Vivo Efficacy

• Cell Renewal Increase

After staining the forearm skin of volunteers with the dansyl chloride dye, Actizyme® advanced botanical ingredient was applied twice a day and removal of the stain was monitored with a UV lamp.

Result - Enhanced desquamation of dead cells. Cell renewal increased by 16.4% with 5% Actizyme® advanced botanical ingredient.

• Limited Skin Reactivity and Barrier Protection
• Skin reactivity

Skin redness due to the irritant Balsam of Peru was determined by chromametry (a* parameter).

Result - Irritation was notably lower compared to lactic acid.

• Clarity of the Skin Complexion

21 Indian volunteers (19-46 years old) with skin phototype (Fitzpatrick) IV applied a cream containing 2% Actizyme® GL advanced botanical ingredient and a placebo cream to half face, twice a day for 30 days. Luminance (L*) and the Individual Typological Angle (ITA°) were obtained from spectrophotometric measurements.

Result - Brighter skin tone after treatment