Knowde Enhanced TDS
Identification & Functionality
- Ingredient Origin
- Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
- Technologies
- Product Families
- Form
- Cells (20%) in Glycerin or Sunflower Oil (80%)
Features & Benefits
- Benefit Claims
- Labeling Claims
- The Peppermint
Peppermint, a hybrid with a powerful aroma
This fragrant herbaceous perennial, whose geographic origins remain unclear, results from crossing water mint (aquatica) with spearmint (spicata). It spreads rapidly by stolons. Widely used for its scent since antiquity, it is now grown in several parts of the world for its essential oil, obtained from the leaves, which is very rich in menthol. Peppermint is used in many food products (herbal teas, confectionery, spirits) and also in pharmaceutical preparations (as a remedy for coughs and colds, in antiseptic creams, local analgesics, etc.).
- Key Points
An active plant cell
Developed to deliver the highest amount of original active molecules.A high tech natural ingredient
Created to preserve and improve the identity and the benefits of a natural product.Balancing action
Regulates the mechanisms at the origin of oily hair.- Product Benefits Overall Regulation
Regulating
Reduces excessive production of oily substances (sebum and lipids) by the hair bulbs and scalp.Antioxidant
Decreases general cell oxidation, reduces the formation of free radicals in hair bulb and scalp cells.Lightening
Makes hair lighter, for longer.Soothing
Calming, reduces irritation by increasing the tolerance threshold of the hair bulbs and scalp.Because oily hair comes from a functional imbalance in the hair bulb, this needs to be corrected through targeted action on the production of oily substances, and also on the general protection of the hair. For lighter, shining, radiant hair.
To be used in hair products (shampoos, masks, serums) intended
to rebalance oily hair or hair that easily becomes oily.
Applications & Uses
- Application Format
- Hair Care Applications
- Use Level
- Starting at 0.5%
- How it Works
EtHAIReal Peppermint: repairs initial imbalances
Oily hair or hair that easily becomes oily
A very unfortunate condition, oily hair is heavy, flat, dull, lacks volume and looks greasy from the roots to the ends. All of these characteristics have the same origin: hyperseborrhea, or overproduction of sebum, a complex of lipid substances
that are synthesized in the sebaceous glands associated with the hair. Sebum attaches itself to hair, especially around the roots, which gives them this greasy, heavy, even dirty appearance. Furthermore, men’s scalps and hair are usually oilier than women’s, because men’s scalp contains more hair follicles, and thus more sebaceous glands, producing more sebum. While this sebum, or lipid film, protects against dryness, overproduction, which is linked to the hormonal function of the sebaceous glands, is complicated to regulate. However, it is possible to act on several key mechanisms, beyond directly on the production of sebum, and to reduce the greasy appearance of oily hair.
Actions of ethaireal peppermint the hair - from the hair bulb to the hair shaft
Sebum and hair
EtHAIReal Peppermint: targeting the mechanisms at the origin of oily hair
EtHAIReal Peppermint not only acts on the hair bulb at the origin of the generation of sebum, but also on the scalp with a more general effect.
Reduces lipid (sebum) production
Focusing on the mechanisms at the origin of hyperseborrhea, EtHAIReal Peppermint operates at the heart of the sebaceous glands associated with hair by reducing the activity of the enzyme involved in the production of sebum-producing cells, 5 alpha reductase. As the sebum or lipid film on the scalp breaks down, it is also essential to regulate this process, separating its most complex components into free fatty acids that are easier to remove. EtHAIReal Peppermint regulates overproduction of lipids in the hair bulb.Protects and prepares the hair for daily stress
Unbalanced and therefore more fragile, oily hair needs to be protected and soothed. Through an initial protection from attacks from free radicals that can accentuate their intrinsic imbalance, by reducing this production in the scalp and the heart of the hair cells. Through a decrease in the synthesis of inflammation mediators in both regions, this synthesis being driven by an imbalance in the skin barrier. EtHAIReal Peppermint reduces general oxidation and irritation.Through its effect on all the characteristics of not only the hair but also the scalp, EtHAIReal Peppermint restores lightness and shine to oily hair.
Properties
- Physical Form
Technical Details & Test Data
- Clinical Tests Results
Overall improvement in the appearance of the hair and scalp in 28 days
- Sebum level
- Oily appearance
- Shine
- Irritation of the scalp
At a concentration of 0.5%
- In Vitro Tests Results
General rebalancing
Regulating effect on the synthesis of lipids
Due to a 26% decrease in 5 alpha-reductase
Due to a 23% increase in free fatty acidsAntioxidant effect
Due to a decrease in the creation of total reactive oxygen species ROS) induced by UVB and UVA
Due to a 24% decrease in lipid peroxidation induced by UVB in the scalpSoothing effect
Due to a decrease in the release of inflammation mediators, IL1-alpha (22%), IL-6 (20%) and PGE2 (19%) and IL1-alpha (24%), IL-6 (22%), PGE2 (18%) in the scalpAt a concentration of 0.5%
Regulating the quantity of oily substances
Hyperseborrhea is an excessive production of sebum, a substance produced by the sebaceous glands that are connected to the hair follicle by the hair canal. They contain a germinative layer that produces sebocytes, cells that synthesize sebum, which they release at the end of their cycle, having undergone lysis, in the light of the sebaceous gland. They then enter the hair canal and are pushed out towards the scalp surface. Sebaceous gland activity is controlled by androgen sex hormones of testicular or ovarian origin, in particular testosterone. In the sebocytes, this hormone is converted into dihydrotestosterone DHT) by the enzyme 5 alpha-reductase. After several more biochemical reactions, sebum is produced (consisting of mainly of triglycerides, fatty acid esters, free fatty acids, waxes, and cholesterol). Hyperseborrhea is thus due either to a secretion of too much androgen, or elevated activity of the enzyme 5 alpha-reductase activity; it is the latter that Naolys decided to study. Downstream in sebum production process, Naolys also studied the production of free fatty acids that make up the sebum and lipids in the scalp: an increase in free fatty acids corresponds to a breaking down of lipids (triglycerides), which strengthens cohesion between
corneocytes.
Study of 5 alpha-reductase activity
5α-reductase (pmol/min/mg of proteins)
Decrease of the 5 alpha-reductase activity
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, decrease of the 5 alpha-reductase activity of 26%, 31% and 38% respectively.Study of free fatty acids
Incorporation of [14C] acetic acid
Increase of free fatty acids
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1%, and 2.5%, increase of free fatty acids respectively
by 23%, 28% and 33%.- Clinical Study
Hair appears less dull and oily, reduced scalp irritation in 4 weeks
Reduction of oily appearance
Oily aspect of the hair and scalp (self-assessment) in 28 days
Soothing effect
Discomfort sensations on the scalp (self-assessment) in 28 days
Decrease of sebum
Level of sebum in 28 days
Increase of hair's shininess
Dull aspect of the hair (self-assessment) in 28 days
Study conditions:
- Tests were carried out for 28 days on a sample of 22 people (9 women and 13 men) aged 19 to 64 years-old with oily hair
- Application three times a week on wet hair and scalp after shampoo, leaving on two to three minutes and then rinsing
- Lipid (sebum) measurement using a Sebumeter and measurement of three other parameters by self-scoring
- Emulsion containing 0.5% EtHAIReal Peppermint (liquid form)
- Protects and Soothes
Reduces the creation of free radicals in the hair bulb and scalp
Because oxidation (due to environmental factors such as UV and pollution, and internal factors such as metabolism and stress) is a broad phenomenon that affects all skin cells, causing damage to their general structure, Naolys studied the effect of EtHAIReal Peppermint on the initial formation of free radicals (ROS) in the hair bulb, and also the formation of malhondialdehyde, a product of lipid peroxidation (oxidation of lipid membranes) in the scalp.Study of ROS
At the level of the hair bulbAverage fluorescence intensity emitted by total ROS
Decrease of total ROS
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% et 2.5%, decrease of total ROS due to UVA/UVB
in beforehand treated keratinocytes respectively of 16%, 21% and 24%
after 30 min and of 20%, 25% and 33% after 3 hours.Study of lipid peroxidation induced by UVB
At the level of the scalpMDA (μg/mg of proteins)
Decrease of MDA rate
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, decrease of lipid peroxidation
induced by UVB (150mJ/cm2), resulting in a decrease in the release of MDA rate
respectively of 24%, 31% and 34%.Reduces irritation
Inflammation is the tissue's response to stress: it consists of all the defense mechanisms through which any foreign substance is recognized, destroyed or removed. The start of inflammation, and its diffusion from its initial location, involves chemical factors (or inflammation mediators) which are synthesized locally or take the form of inactive precursors. Naolys studied three inflammation mediators synthesized in the hair bulbs and scalp: 2 cytokines (IL1-apha and IL-6) and a prostaglandin (PGE2).Study of inflammation mediators
At the level of the hair bulb
Decrease of IL1-alpha
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after UVB induction, IL1-alpha decreases by 22%, 32% and 38% respectively.
Decrease of IL-6
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after UVB induction, IL-6 decreases by 20%, 30% and 34% respectively.
Decrease of PGE2
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after UVB induction, PGE2 decreases by 19%, 28% and 33% respectively.At the level of the scalp
IL1-alpha (pg/ml)
Decrease of IL1-alpha
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after UVB induction, IL1-alpha decreases by 24%, 31% and 36% respectively.
Decrease of IL-6
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after UVB induction, IL-6 decreases by 22%, 31% and 35% respectively.
Decrease of PGE2
At concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%, after UVB induction, PGE2 decreases by 18%, 26% and 32% respectively.