Knowde Enhanced TDS
Identification & Functionality
- INCI Name
- Ingredient Origin
- Cosmetic Ingredients Functions
- CAS No.
- 93334-48-6
- EC No.
- 297-122-1
- Technologies
- Product Families
- Form
- 20% Cells in 80% Vegetal Glycerin
Features & Benefits
- Benefit Claims
- The White Rose the Elegance of Purity
With no color and a simple crown of petals, this hybrid rose has symbolized purity and innocence since ancient Greek times, when it was the flower of Aphrodite, the young goddess of beauty. Today, it is an old rose grown for its resistance to the cold, its sweet, powerful scent, and its essential oil; it can still be found in growing in the wild in Asia Minor. Since the advent of Christianity, it has been associated with Mary, the key moments in life, and eternal love.
- Key Points
An active plant cell
Developed to deliver the highest amount of original active molecules.A high tech natural ingredient
Created to preserve and improve the identity and the benefits of a natural product.An essential radiance action
Protects and balances skin.- Product Benefits Protection & Radiance
Revives the complexion's
radiance, making it brighter and more uniform; reduces pigmentation defects.Oxygenating, detoxifying
Enhances cellular metabolism, increases the supply of oxygen to cells in the epidermis, stimulates the elimination of toxins.Regenerating
Increases cell regeneration in the epidermis and strengthens the skin barrier.Antioxidant, anti-pollution
Reduces the creation of free radicals due to pollution.To be used in skincare or make-up products like cream, fluid, serum, balm,
lotion, milk, foundation, concealer, etc. All the skin care and make-up products
intended to enhance the skin's brightness and protect it from external stress.
Radiance
Applications & Uses
- Markets
- Color Cosmetic Applications
- Skin Care Applications
- Use Level
- Starting at 0.5%
- How it Works
Smooth Lightening White rose: protects and strengthens cellular activity in the skin to restore natural radiance
Throughout the year, especially in the winter, many city-dwellers complain of a dull, gray, complexion, lacking in radiance. This can be explained by multiple factors: beyond the possible negligence of our skin, we lead high speed lives in an environment that presents many different kinds of stress, and which ultimately can threaten our skin at any time. In the city, for example, the skin is exposed to pollutants, as well as UVB. According to recent studies, these are likely to increase cellular oxidation and weaken the skin barrier. This daily exposure has negative consequences for our skin's health; it also increases chronological aging, which destabilizes and slows normal cell function.
But the cause can also be associated with our skin type. In Asia, in addition to a tendency to pigment imbalance, women have more reactive skin, which dehydrates faster, and can quickly appear dull, especially when judged by the beauty standards set by the stars of the cinema and music industries.The result is that, from East to the West, all skin tends to lose its radiance: to regain it, action needs to be taken at several levels.
Smooth Lightening White rose, a front-line action against factors that cause the complexion to deteriorate
Smooth Lightening White rose’s action is concentrated on the epidermis, in its upper layers, where the living cells are closest to the external environment, and react to stress. It has a protective effect, and supports natural mechanisms that have deteriorated due to aging and environmental factors.
Protects the skin from external stress
Smooth Lightening White rose protects keratinocytes in several ways.By reducing the production of free radicals due to pollution (in particular exhaust gasses) and heavy metals present in city air. This oxidation eventually leads to cellular malfunction.
By improving cellular respiration, including metabolism, thereby increasing the supply of oxygen, which also reduces the creation of free radicals and stimulates the elimination
of toxins.By reducing the synthesis of inflammatory mediators released by oxidative stress. That raises the skin's tolerance threshold, thereby reducing the factors causing irritation and redness.
Supports natural mechanisms that maintain radiance
Smooth Lightening White rose regulates keratinocyte and melanocyte activity, and thus corrects imbalances caused by aging or which are inherent to skin type.By decreasing excessive production of melanin, which creates marks and negatively impacts the uniformity of the complexion.
By increasing cellular renewal in a balanced way. It thus produces better cellular cohesion in the upper layers of the epidermis, resulting in better hydration of the epidermis and an improved skin barrier. This will then reduce the accumulation of dead skin cells on the surface of the epidermis and eliminate surplus melanin more quickly.
Protected and strengthened due to Smooth Lightening White rose's action, the epidermis cells regain their vigor and the skin becomes light and radiant. The complexion is more uniform.
Properties
- Physical Form
- Dispersible in
- Most cosmetic formulations
Regulatory & Compliance
- Certifications & Compliance
Technical Details & Test Data
- Clinical Testing Results
An overall improvement in facial radiance after 56 days
The panel’s verdict
- 90% of women reported that their skin was radiant
- 95% of women reported that their skin was bright
- 90% of women reported that their complexion was homogeneous and uniform
At a concentration of 0.5%
- In Vitro Testing Results
Anti free-radical and anti-pollution effect
Due to a reduction in free radicals demonstrated by a reduction in MDA production induced by pollutant residues (-19%) and heavy metals (-22%).Energizing, detoxifying effect
Due to a 21% increase in cell respiration.Soothing effect
Due to a decrease in the release of inflammation mediators, IL1-alpha (-19%), IL-6 (-20%) and PGE2 (-22%).Lightening, anti-mark effect
Due to a decrease in pigmentation - reduction in melanin synthesis (-17%) and reduction in tyrosinase activity (-15%).Regenerating, protective effect
Due to an increase in cellular proliferation (17%) and differentiation (homogenisation of the filaggrin).At a concentration of 0.5%
- Clinical Study
Increase in the radiance, brightness and homogeneity of the complexion after 28 and 56 days
EFFECT ON THE COMPLEXION CUTANEOUS STATE (CLINICAL SCORING)
After 28 days then 56 days
- Increase in the complexion's radiance of 10% and then 15%
- Increase in the complexion's brightness of 11% and then 17%
- Increase in the complexion's homogeneity of 11% and then 16%
Study conditions:
- Tests were carried out for 28 days and 56 days on a sample of 30 women aged 25 to 65 years-old
- Application once a day
- Measurements made by clinical scoring carried out by a dermatologist according to a pre-established set of criteria
- Emulsion containing 0.5% of Smooth Lightening White rose (dispersion form, 20% of cells)
- In Vitro Testing Results
With concentrations of 0.5%, 1% and 2.5%
Restoration of radiance to the epidermis
By protecting the cells in the epidermis : The first action to take to restore the skin's radiance is to ensure that the cells suffer less damage from environmental factors: UVB, pollutant residues, heavy metals, and thus the oxidative stress that they cause.
By reducing oxidation due to heavy metals and pollutant residues
Many situations can lead to an excess of free radicals (induced lipid peroxidation) such as exposure to heavy metals and pollutant residues, contamination by toxins (during respiration), and intense inflammatory reactions, etc. which affect the epidermis. Naolys studied the release of MDA (malondialdhehyde) that occurs during lipid peroxidation induced by residues of pollutants and heavy metals.
Study of lipid peroxidation
Decrease of MDA (residues of pollutants)
Protection against lipid peroxidation induced by the residues of pollutants,
translated by a decrease of MDA by 19%, 24% and 28% compared to protective
enzymes SOD/catalase (32%).
Decrease of MDA (cadmium and mercury)
Protection against lipid peroxidation induced by cadmium and mercury, translated by a decrease of MDA by 22%, 27% and 30% compared to enzymes protective SOD/catalase (35%).By increasing cellular respiration : We recently demonstrated that oxidation phenomena appear in the respiratory chain, and disrupt it. Naolys studied keratinocyte metabolism by looking at the metabolization of glucose by the epidermal cells in hypoxic conditions (through CO2 release) because these cause malfunctions.
Study of cellular respiration
In the physiological conditions, increase of the release of 14CO2 respectively
by 15%, 22% and 26%.
In the asphixia conditions, increase of the release of 14CO2 respectively
by 21%, 27% and 31%.By the reduction of inflammation: Inflammation is the tissue's response to stress, including UVB: it consists of all the defense mechanisms through which any foreign substance is recognized, destroyed or removed. Naolys studied three synthesized inflammation mediators in the hair bulb, two well-known cytokines IL1-alpha and IL-6) and a prostaglandin (PGE2) which is involved in vasodilation, among other things.
Study of inflammation mediators
Decrease of IL1-alpha
After UVB induction, IL1-alpha decreases by 19%, 26% and 28% respectively.
Decrease of IL-6
After UVB induction, IL-6 decreases by 20%, 28% and 31% respectively.
Decrease of PGE2
After UVB induction, PGE2 decreases by 22%, 26% and 30% respectively.By modulating cellular activity in the epidermis
The second effect is the regulation of certain activities that stimulate or reduce radiance and which are affected by chronological aging.
By reducing melanin production: The synthesis of melanin begins with an amino acid, tyrosine, which is catalyzed by the enzyme, tyrosinase. Naolys has chosen to study tyrosinase activity: this informs us of the transformation of tyrosine into melanin. It consists of the transformation of tyrosine from the direct capture from the extracellular environment or from the transformation of phenylalanine. And then the result of this activity, i.e. the synthesis of melanin itself.
Study of pigmentation
Decrease of tyrosinase activity
Decrease of the activity of enzyme tyrosinase respectively by 15%,16% and 14% at the level of melanocyts compared to kojic acid (-37%).
Decrease of melanine
Decrease of the melanine rate respectively by 17%, 14% and 19% at the level of melanocyts compared to kojic acid (-35%).By increasing cell renewal
Cell renewal is an essential, multifunctional mechanism that ranges from the elimination of dead cells to the strengthening of the skin barrier, due to the keratin carried by the keratinocytes and the lipids they release, and the synthesis of filaggrin. In parallel, corneocytes release melanin during desquamation.
Study of cell renewal
Increase of epidermis proliferation
Stimulation of the proliferation of keratinocytes of the basal layer at the level of the treated epidermis translated by an increase of KI67, respectively by 17%, 20% and 24%.
1. LABELING OF FILAGGRIN: EPIDERMIS CONTROL
2. LABELING OF FILAGGRIN: TREATED EPIDERMIS WITH SMOOTH LIGHTENING WHITE ROSE (AT 2.5%)
Decrease of epidermis differentiation
Epidermal cell differentiation decreases, which is reflected by less intense
but more uniform marking of the filaggrin.
Packaging & Availability
- Regional Availability