HYDRO-B18

Identification & Functionality

Carrier

Aqua

INCI Name

Glycyrrhetinic Acid,

Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate,

Proline

Ingredient Origin

Natural Origin,

Non-Animal Origin,

Plant Origin

Cosmetic Ingredients Functions

Anti-Inflammatory,

Soothing Agent

Technologies

Cosmetic Ingredients

Product Families

Cosmetic Ingredients — Cosmetic Actives

Skin Actives

Cosmetic Ingredients — Functionals

Sensory Modifiers

Features & Benefits

Benefit Claims

Age & Dark Spot Reduction,

Anti-Inflammatory,

Anti-Itching,

Broad pH Stability,

Irritation Reduction,

Oxidation Protection,

Soothing,

Suitable for Sensitive Skin

Labeling Claims

Biodegradable,

Clean at Sephora,

Halal,

Natural,

Naturally Derived,

Palm Oil-free,

Palm free,

Plant-Based,

Ulta Beauty's Conscious Beauty,

Vegan

Benefits

• 18-ß-glycyrrhetinic acid is regarded as one of the most effective functional ingredients in nature with marked anti-inflammatory and soothing activity.
• It finds extensive use in the pharmaceutical sector and is often used in its derived salified version.
• HYDRO-B18® contains 10% of free and intact 18-ß-glycyrrhetinic acid delivered in a 100% plant-derived medium.

Applications & Uses

Markets

Personal Care

Applications

Personal Care — Beauty & Care

Skin Care,

Sun Care,

Treatment Products

Application Format

Creams,

Gel,

Leave On

Skin Care Applications

Skin Gel

Sun Care Applications

After Sun Products

Treatment Product Applications

Anti Itch Cream

Use Level

1%

Application

• Skincare : transparent gels and emulsions for sensitive and irritated skins.
• Suncare : after sun transparent gels and emulsions.

Properties

Physical Form

Liquid

Appearance

Clear liquid

Odor

Characteristic

Microbiological Values

	Value	Units	Test Method / Conditions
Total Bacteria	max. 100	CFU/g	-
Total Molds	max. 100	CFU/g	-

Characteristics

	Value	Units	Test Method / Conditions
Dry Residue	55 - 57	%	-
Specific Gravity (at 25°C)	1.13 - 1.15	g/ml	-
Heavy Metals	max. 10	ppm	-
pH (5% water solution, at 25°C)	7.5 - 9.5	-	-
Solvent	Water	-	-

Solubility

Transparent soluble in demineralized water at pH 7-9. The presence of surfactants allows to widen its transparent solubility in a wider pH range.

Properties

• Transparent soluble in demineralized water at pH 7 - 9. The presence of surfactant allows widening its transparent solubility in a wider pH range.
• 100% plant-derived and palm-free.
• Cortisone - like ingredient : cortisone-like ingredients such as glycyrrhetinic acid, relieves skin irritations without the typical side effects of corticosteroids. It can be applied daily as part of a preventive skincare regime for sensitive skin and especially in skincare products for infants who have not yet developed a protective hydro-lipid film or acid mantle.
• Anti itching action : Glycyrrhetinic acid reduces the rise of the itching. In particular, it has been shown the role of glycyrrhetinic acid in reducing chronic pruritus by reducing the level of leukotrienes produced.
• Anti melanogenic action : In vitro studies on cell lines have shown that treatment with glycyrrhizin and its aglycone, glycyrrhetinic acid both before and during sun exposure - prevents oxidative damage.

Regulatory & Compliance

Certifications & Compliance

COSMOS,

Halal,

NaTrue

Technical Details & Test Data

Composition

INCI Name	Contents (%)
Aqua	45 - 50
Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate	30 - 35
Glycyrrhetiinic Acid	10
Proline	10

 

Test

In-vivo tests demonstrate soothing activity:

• 16% TEWL - after 2 applications of a cream containing 1% HYDRO-B18® on SDS-induced erythema
• 21% erythema index after 3 applications of a cream containing 1% HYDRO-B18® on SDS-induced erythema
• In-vivo comparative tests show that HYDRO-B18® is more effective in treating erythema than standard Bisabolol and Ammonium Glycyrrhizate.

Storage & Handling

Shelf Life

36 Months