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Protean S

Natural silk fiber, finely pulverized, rich in amino acids. Film-forming, moisturizing and adsorbent properties. Reduces skin and formula oiliness. Particularly suitable for skin care and makeup.

INCI Name: Serica Powder

Ingredient Origin: Natural Origin

Labeling Claims: Natural, Naturally Derived, Non-Carcinogenic, Reprotoxic substance-free, Ulta Beauty's Conscious Beauty

Certifications & Compliance: IECIC (China), REACH (Europe)

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Identification & Functionality

INCI Name
Ingredient Origin
CAS No.
9009-99-8

Features & Benefits

Product Overview

Origin and structure

  • Originally silk was worked by hand in hot water, where women kept their hands immersed for a long time. Despite this, instead of becoming worn and chapped, they appeared younger and smother every day.
  • Silk fiber is obtained from the cocoon of the silk worm (Bombyx mori), whose main
  • function is to protect the pupa during metamorphosis. The worm’s glands are dedicated to the synthesis of two kinds of proteins, fibroin and sericin, which have a substantially different structure.
  • Fibroin, the core protein, constitutes more than 70% of the cocoon and is a hydrophobic glycoprotein, which gives silk properties of shine and resistance.
  • Silk powder (silk fibroin powder) is a kind of macromolecular silk fibroin in powder form, which is made from the silk fibroin degummed under high pressure. Its molecular weight is of about 250,000 Da.
  • Thanks to its natural sheen, touch and tensile strength, the silk is often known as “Queen of the fibers”. It contains amino acids such as glycine, alanine, serine, tyrosine, showing an amino acid profile very close to that of the skin.
  • Protean S is 100% high quality natural silk protein, obtained by pulverizing the natural silk fiber to a fine powder, after removing the sericin.
Cosmetic Properties
  • The use of silk derivatives in cosmetic formulation not only brings prestige to the product image, but even more importantly, enhances the performances of the finished product.
  • Thanks to its unique characteristics of porosity, silk powder forms a protective film that helps regulate TEWL and maintain the right hydration level,while allowing skin breathability.
  • Compared with talcum powder and titanium dioxide, silk powder possesses excellent air permeability properties.
  • Silk powder has remarkable absorbing properties, which can be of help in drying excessive sweating and skin oiliness.
  • Protean S increases emulsions stability, enhances the texture of the finished products, conferring a smooth skin-feel. lt improves the application of foundation, powders and make-up products.

Applications & Uses

Nail Care Applications
Skin Care Applications
Use Level
2 - 10%, 1 - 5% in emulsions, 3 - 5% in foundation and lipsticks, 5 - 10% in loose powders
Applications
  • Cosmetics of great elegance and high functional value can be obtained.
  • The extremely fine granulometry makes it ideal for loose and compact powders, blushes.
  • Loose and compact powders
  • Foundations
  • Eyeshadows
  • Eyelashes, lipsticks
  • Nail polishes
  • Matte effect creams.
  • Foundations
  • Face creams
  • Powders

Properties

Physical Form
Appearance
Hygroscopic powder, White grey powder
Typical Properties
ValueUnitsTest Method / Conditions
Ash Contentmax. 5.5%
Granulometry40 ± 3micron
Granulometry (average diameter)40 ± 3μm
Heavy Metals (calculated as Pb)max.20mg/Kg
Microbiological Values
ValueUnitsTest Method / Conditions
Coliformi TotaliAbsent
EnterobacteriaceaeAbsent
Escherichia ColiAbsent
ListeriaAbsent
Microbial Countmax. 100cfu/gECQ0238
SalmonellaAbsent
Staphylococcus aureusAbsent
Composition
ValueUnitsTest Method / Conditions
Serica Powder100%
Specifications
ValueUnitsTest Method / Conditions
Humiditymax. 6.5%NCQ0694
Total Nitrogenmin. 14%ECQ0304 (kjeldahl)
Origin-Properties

Fine powder, preserving the original structure of natural silk. It forms a breathable protective film helping to maintain the correct degree of hydration of the skin. Sweating and sebum absorbing properties. Texture enhancer

Regulatory & Compliance

Certifications & Compliance
Chemical Inventories

Technical Details & Test Data

Function

Moisturizing, adsorbing, texturizing, stabilizing

It forms colloidal dispersion in water.
Silk powder is very stable at the temperature range within which most cosmetic products are usually processed. It is also chemically stable in a wide pH range, suitable for most cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations. Its particular structure makes it easily wettable and compatible with other cosmetic ingredients.

Process

Protean S - Function

 

Storage & Handling

Shelf Life
2 years
Storage Information

Shelf Life: 2 years.
Stored in sealed packaging and avoid contact with light and heat sources.
After opening we recommend to use all the content of the packaging or to keep the packaging very well closed and to use the product as soon as possible.