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Balance® 47, a unique, hydrophobically modified acrylic resin, has been specially designed to produce superior performance in low volatile organic compound (VOC) aerosol and pump hair sprays that contain water. In such systems, the negative effects of water are well known. Water contributes to both increased viscosity and increased surface tension resulting in wetter sprays with a larger particle size. These sprays are inefficient in coating the hair. Water also affects initial curl droop, drying time, polymer holding properties, and stiffness of the hair. Furthermore, the increased viscosity due to the water can limit the polymer solids of the spray and can result in actuator blockage. Due to its unique composition and molecular weight distribution, Balance® 47 polymer hair fixative overcomes the effects of water over abroad range of hair spray VOC content.

INCI Name: Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer

Functions: Film Former, Hair Fixative

Benefit Claims: Compatibility, Curl Retention, Easy Rinsability, Fast Drying, Hydrolytic Stability, Improves Hydrophobic Properties, Low Viscosity, Natural Look, Non-Tacky, Strong Hold, Superior Performance, Uniform Texture

Labeling Claims: Low VOC, Ulta Beauty's Conscious Beauty

Certifications & Compliance: EU Cosmetic Directive 76/768/EEC

Technical Data Sheet

Knowde Enhanced TDS

Identification & Functionality

Chemical Family
Cosmetic Ingredients Functions

Features & Benefits

Key Attributes
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  • Low solution viscosity
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  • Excellent film former
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  • High Tg acrylic polymer
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  • Hydrophobically modified
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  • Hydrolytically stable
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  • Fine atomization in low VOC hair sprays with water
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  • Rapid drying
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  • Use in high solids formulas
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  • Propellant compatible
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  • Non-tacky
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  • Good holding – even in soft, natural hair sprays
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  • Excellent aerosol stability
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  • Easy shampoo removability
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  • Innovative product capabilities
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  • Useful in a wide range of styling aids such as mousses, styling creams, and setting lotions

Applications & Uses

Hair Care Applications
Suggested Use Level
2 - 8% (Aerosol hair spray), 2 - 10% (Non-aerosol hair spray)
Formulation Guidelines

Solubility

As supplied, Balance® 47 polymer is soluble in ethanol and isopropanol but insoluble in water. The polymer becomes water soluble when neutralized 80%-100% with suitable bases such as AMP (2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol). When neutralized, Balance® 47 polymer is also soluble in alcohol- water blends and can be easily washed off the hair with shampoo. Typical usage levels are 2-10%.

Neutralization

Balance® 47 polymer is carboxylated and must be neutralized with a suitable alkaline material in the formulation. AMP is recommended, although other neutralizers can be used. For example, neutralization the inorganic neutralizers such as potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide, can produce a stiffer film on the hair, while still making the polymer easily shampoo removable.

For those low VOC hair sprays containing water, the recommended neutralization level will depend on the water content of the formula. In both 80% VOC and 55% VOC hair sprays containing water, it is recommended that Balance® 47 polymer be neutralized 80% with AMP; aqueous, alcohol-free systems require 95% to 100% neutralization to achieve suitable water solubility. The final formulation pH of a Balance® 47 polymer containing hair spray should fall within a pH range of 8.0-9.0.

To neutralize the carboxyl groups in Balance® 47 polymer, the amount of base required can be determined by the following relationship:

B = (W * A* N * E)/1000

Where:
B = weight of base needed (grams)
W = weight of Balance® 47 polymer used
A = acidity of polymer taken from the certificate of analysis or (use average acidity of 2.5)
N = % neutralization required (decimal)
E = equivalent weight of base

Example: To neutralize 25 grams of Balance® 47 polymer, 80% with AMP

B = (25 x 2.5 x 0.80 x 89.14)/1000 = 4.457 grams

W = 25 grams
A = 2.5 (average acidity)
N = 0.90
E = 89.14 g/mol

Note: Depending upon the polymer used, it may be necessary in quality control to consider the alkalinity of the polymer in titrations to determine percent neutralization.

Recommended Applications

Balance® 47 polymer can be used in a wide variety of hair fixative formulations, and is particularly suited to low VOC (80% VOC to alcohol-free) hair spray formulations.

Regulatory & Compliance

Certifications & Compliance

Technical Details & Test Data

Compatibility

Additives

The formulator may wish to use various additives to either enhance on-hair properties or for marketing claims. Balance® 47 polymer is compatible with a wide variety of anionic and nonionic additives such as silicones, proteins, esters, and other commonly used additives. Due to its amphoteric character, the compatibility of Balance® 47 polymer with cationic additives will depend on quantity, type, pH, and charge density.

To further reduce particle size and minimize the foaming tendency of low VOC hair sprays containing Balance® 47 polymer, the formulator may wish to evaluate use of the following additives (the use of these additives is described in U.S. Patent 5,599,524): Hexamethyl disiloxane, Bisphenyl hexamethicone, Isocetyl alcohol.

Propellant

As supplied, Balance® 47 polymer is soluble in ethanol and isopropanol but insoluble in water. The polymer becomes water soluble when neutralized 80%-100% with suitable bases such as AMP (2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol). When neutralized, Balance® 47 polymer is also soluble in alcohol- water blends and can be easily washed off the hair with shampoo. Typical usage levels are 2-10%.

Important note: Balance® 47 polymer is incompatible in some high propellant hair spray systems. Product stability and suitability should be confirmed in all respects by doing appropriate stability and robustness testing. For questions and recommendations, contact one of our regional office.

Other polymers

Balance® 47 polymer is compatible with a variety of other polymers. Polymer blends can be used successfully to modify properties of Balance® 47 polymer in hair care products..

Performance Properties

Hair Spray 

Sprays with Balance® 47 polymer, the formulator has a unique tool in creating innovative products in low VOCcompliant hair sprays to reduce overall impact of water on the hair. Due to its exceptionally low viscosity in aqueous and aqueous–alcoholic systems, Balance® 47 polymer can be formulated at much higher than typical use levels. A restricted valve orifice can then be used to deliver to the hair what would amount to amore “normal” resin deposition – to produce more “normal” holding properties.

Reduced spray rates resulting from restricted valve orifice deliver less water to the hair and release less VOCs into the atmosphere per actuation interval. Thus, through use of Balance® 47 polymer, the formulator can mitigate the impact of water in hair spray through reduction in the “initial curl droop of the hair” produced by water. Since less VOCs are emitted per actuation, lower VOC compliance can be achieved while formulating at higher VOC content.

 

Viscocity

​As supplied, Balance® 47 polymer is soluble in ethanol and isopropanol but insoluble in water. The polymer becomes water soluble when neutralized 80%-100% with suitable bases such as AMP (2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol). When neutralized, Balance® 47 polymer is also soluble in alcohol-water blends and can be easily washed off the hair with shampoo. Typical usage levels are 2.0-10.0%.

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 Solution Viscosity* (cps)
Balance® 47 polymer4
Commercial acrylate109

*RV Brookfield/spindle 21/50 RPM/10% solution in wate

Migration of a resin droplet along the hair shaft is a critical factor in imparting stiffness and set to the hair. It can also impact the feel and gloss of the hair. In low VOC systems, water increases viscosity and restricts droplet flow down the hair shaft. However, use of the low viscosity Balance® 47 polymer allows droplets to migrate down the hair shaft more quickly. Using UV pulsing laser microscopy, the following droplet flow rates were determined on hair. Droplet size was fixed at 550 + 30 microns. Sprays were delivered from 80% VOC aerosols containing water.

 

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ResinViscocity% SolidsFlow Rate (mm/sec)
Commercial AHigh53.2
Commercial BMedium54.0
Balance® 47 polymerLow57.1
Balance® 47 polymerLow83.2

 

​​​​​​Preparation of hair spray concentrates

The preparation of the aerosol concentrates should be carried out according to the procedure outlined in the following example:

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  • Charge the mixing vessel with the required amount of alcohol
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  • Start agitation
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  • Add resin slowly – so that no accumulation of resin occurs on the surface
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  • After all the resin is added, slowly add the neutralizing agent (If KOH, add as 10% solution in alcohol)*
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  • Continue mixing until all the resin is in solution
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  • Add the rest of the ingredients in the formulation 
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  • Filter the concentrate down through 5-10 micron cartridge filters before filling the aerosol containers.

* Alcohol temperature dramatically affects solution rate. It is generally suggested that alcohol temperature be 15-20°C. Concentrates of up to 20% neutralized resin in alcohol may be prepared. Care should be taken that the viscosity of the concentrate is suited to the aerosol packing machinery involved.

 Hair sprays covering the entire spectrum of VOC levels can be prepared with Balance® 47 polymer.

Packaging & Availability

Regional Availability
  • Africa
  • Asia Pacific
  • Europe
  • Latin America
  • North America

Storage & Handling

Storage Conditions

Balance® 47 polymer is supplied as a white powder. Some settling will occur in the drums duringshipping. Balance® 47 polymer can be stored under normal conditions without undergoing decomposition. When not in use, the drums should be kept covered to prevent dust accumulation and moisture pick-up.